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Whatever you may think about the hype and the wired crowd of Nouveau Gardens Gamines that turn Vic & Angelo's into such a zoo most nights (make a reservation!), David Manero's hot spot in Palm Beach Gardens dishes up the best gnocchi in town. And maybe the best veal scallopini. And certainly the best pan-fried rainbow trout with white beans and escarole. As for the pizza, the word is that they truck in real New York City water for an extra-authentic crust, but the real pleasure of these coal-oven pies is in the toppings: fresh clams and applewood bacon, eggplant and housemade mozzarella, or finger peppers with salami, sweet sausage, and aged provolone. Little appetizers of cured meats imported from Italy, like the excellent coppa (pork shoulder) and artisanal cheeses, are exciting mouthfuls before any of the secondi piatti, and a large list of excellent Italian and California vinos served by the quartino (roughly a glass and a half) means you can do a lot of sampling. The outdoor bar is pleasant; inside, watch chefs turning pizza dough inside their pristine, white-tiled kitchens. Play chess or bocce outside on the patio, and make sure to check out the bathroom.