I remember the low point well. Just a few months ago now, it was a slow summer in a notoriously seasonal dining town. But almost every restaurant seemed to be operating in a dimension entirely separate from one crucial element: customers. After tucking in alone to so many plates of frites and short ribs and wild-caught salmon, I began to feel like those thumb-twiddling restaurateurs must have: At first, there was a deep sadness, which gave way to the sting of red-hot betrayal before finally settling into a... More >>>