Many restaurants are like adolescents -- they suffer from identity crises. Who am I? Do others see the "real" me or just what I present outwardly? And while we're at it, who am I going to be when I grow up?Nevis, in these terms, is clearly a budding teen. The month-old restaurant, located overlooking the Intracoastal on NE 32nd Avenue in Fort Lauderdale, hasn't quite decided on its character yet. The eatery's named for a Caribbean island, and the décor -- billowing sailcloth overhead, canvas-covered banquettes, wood floors -- is fitting, especially since most of the tables are dockside and benefit from the breezes blowing off the water. Hurricane lanterns give off a little light, though not quite enough by which to read the menus, and bottles of wine and water are placed in galvanized metal tubs rather than formal wine buckets. As for the bill of fare, it's a bit less island than it is South Florida fusion; South African chef-proprietor Twain Schreiber (one of several owners), who's worked at Maxwell's Chop House and Café Arugula, among other SoFlo eateries, has termed it "American eclectic." So far so good. The upscale eats match the informal elegance of... More >>>