Christina Wan's Mandarin House

The Wans have been running Chinese restaurants around South Florida for more than 40 years, satisfying cravings for fermented black beans or Peking duck without inducing any Fear-Factor-type gag reflexes -- no jellyfish or clotted pig's blood. Ms. Wan is a presence at her new place -- chic and sharp-eyed -- and as always, the restaurant purveys a decent selection of vegetarian dishes. Delicious specialties include the supersweet orange beef made with candied tangerine peel, a jewel-like dish of eggplant in oyster sauce with strips of pork, a unique butterfly shrimp foo yong with bacon, and a selection of very fine homemade potstickers and dumplings.