Pizza Mia

For more than two decades, Pizza Mia, though it's changed hands a couple of times, has been serving the same menu in its cramped, narrow space in Lighthouse Point - a walk-in closet lined with tables and bad murals - to the sound of slamming oven doors, the grumbling of the dour pizza guy ("I've made pizzas in four states, and I can tell you this one is the best"), and a ringing telephone in the foreground. Nothing except an extra-large pie will cost you much more than $10 here, and everything's served with a fresh, salty tossed salad with green olives and a basket of puffy rolls floating in garlic butter. Tasty and generous baked include: chicken or eggplant parm, ravioli, ziti - with just the right balance of sour and spice in the tomato sauce and the right proportion of cheese to noodle.