Real Chinese cuisine in Palm Beach County?
Well, stranger things have happened.
At least they will if all goes according to plan at the new China Beach Bistro (409 Northwood Rd., 561-833-4242), an upscale restaurant dedicated to
turning out authentic Chinese fare (no sushi!) and dim sum in West
Palm's resurgent Northwood neighborhood. Proprietors are financier
Roger Hochstin and interior designer wife Judi, along with Café Centro
owners T.K. Kaytmaz and Sal Kutsal, who apparently have tasted their way
through local Chinese eateries and found them about as truly Chinese as
Chun King.
To pull off this bit of culinary alchemy the
quartet raided real Chinese restaurants in New York for three chefs,
including one specializing in dim sum (literally, "touch the heart"),
the Chinese small plates that are rarely seen in these parts and even
more rarely are worth eating.
Among the dim sum offerings are
steamed shrimp and snow pea leaves dumplings, beef potstickers with baby
carrots and ginger, and a crispy roll of applewood-smoked bacon, shrimp
and asparagus. Entrée-sized dishes include half and whole Peking duck,
kung pao baby bamboo shoots with crispy tofu, steamed snapper with baby
bok choy, and wok-sauteed pork belly with garlic, scallions and pickled
ginger.
Prices aren't takeout Chinese cheap, with dim sum
priced between $6 and $10 and entrees from $14 to $25. But given the
abomination that is most Chinese food in South Florida, it's probably a
pretty good deal.
Follow Clean Plate Charlie on Twitter: @CleanPlateBPB.
