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Subject: Food and Cooking
El Zocalo in Margate Looks Enough Like Mexico, but Is It the Real Deal?
September 17, 2009Side Dish: Giorgio's Brick Oven Pizza
September 17, 2009BeerLiquor of the Week: Cruzan Single Barrel RumJohn LinnYou know those little hexagonally packaged Tortuga rum cakes that people who get off cruise ships and air planes tend to give hand out the way fruit cakes go around during Christmas time? They're sweet and dry and taste like a very distant relative to what someone's Bahamian grandmother might actually make and hand out to friends and neighbors. Well, I'm assaulted by that smell when I life a rocks glass with a tiny pour of Cruzan Single Barrel Rum to my nose. It took me a while to pl
September 17, 2009Downtown Fort Lauderdale's Brown Baggers Need a Place to Squat
Photo by Lisa RabBy the time the eviction notice appeared on the front door of Cafe Pisa, it was too late. Downtown office ladies with brown bags, paperback novels, and Tupperware had already descended on the shuttered restaurant's outdoor wrought-iron tables. Ideally situated in the plaza area of the Wachovia Tower building in Fort Lauderdale, the tables provided a quiet, shady lunch spot with a view of a fountain and a respite from the traffic noise on Broward Boulevard.Let's face it: The b
September 18, 2009Cheap Wine That Doesn't Suck
Pinot noir that actually tastes like pinot noir is becoming about as rare as brain cells at a birthers' convention, as winemakers pimp out this most perfect of all varietals with gobs of fruit and cords of oak and enough alcohol to stir into a martini. Cheap pinot noir that actually tastes like pinot noir is ever rarer than that, as it's a finicky, difficult, high-maintenance grape, the enological equivalent of Lindsay Lohan. So when you run across a pinot noir with the smok
September 21, 2009Side Dish: Key West Edition
September 24, 2009Side Dish: Chini's Burritos
October 1, 2009Cheap Wine That Doesn't Suck
As part of his continuing campaign to free wine drinkers from the shackles of chardonnay, Clean Plate Charlie presents. . . torrontes. WTF? TF, not to put too fine a point on it, is the biggest white wine grape in (and the only indigenous grape to) Argentina. If you've never heard of it, well, that's pretty F'd up, because when done right torrontes makes a lovely wine--crisp without the puckery tartness of sauvignon blanc, floral without the sweetness of many rieslings
October 5, 2009Monday's Special at Bova: Ronnie Brown
If you're not a subscriber to our weekly Café Bites dining newsletter for Broward and Palm Beach counties, here's a taste of what you missed this week. Click here to subscribe. Ronnie Brown: a new kind of Dolphin at Bova.Why are this year's Dolphins more chum than shark? Is the season dead in the water? Will the Tuna change the team mascot to a flounder? Ask the Dolphins' own Ronnie Brown snotty questions like these at his weekly radio show at Bova Prime. Every Monday from 7 to 8 p.m., th
October 6, 2009Shepherd's Pie: Meaty Perfection in a Pan, or, Proof that the English Really Can Cook
Photo by Flickr user mitchenallFor a time, when I was a lad growing up in New York, I went to an obnoxiously upscale grade school called St. Bernard's (pronounced with Connecticut lockjaw of course, as in BERnerd's, not BerNARD'S). I still have a copy of the school's Christmas card from when I was in first grade and I was selected to be the cover boy, wearing a jaunty cap and posed with a giant (you guessed right) St. Bernard. I had Angus Young shorts on and everything.I didn't much care for
October 2, 2009Taza Mediterranean Kitchen and Lounge
October 8, 2009Creolina's Dixie Takeout in Davie Offers Cajun Creole Goodness
October 8, 2009Da Francesco's Denied Temporary Injunction
Click for the whole document. Da Francesco's, the group that for five months operated the organic Italian restaurant of the same name in Palm Beach, was denied an injunction last week against 251 Partners that would have seen them take back control of their restaurant. The order came down by way of Palm Beach Circuit Court Judge David Crow, who concluded that although da Francesco's has an excellent case against 251 Partners, an injunction allowing them to take back the restaurant would be un
October 7, 2009Cut 432 Takes Cocktails a Cut Above
Bill CitaraCut 432's Brian Albe mixes poetic. They're doing it in New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami. . . in Delray Beach, not so much. A new generation of--don't call them "bartenders," call them "mixologists"--is flavoring their own spirits, making their own infusions and syrups and garnishes, creating cocktails that go far beyond the usual "vodka-rocks" and assorted abominations that have defiled the holy martini. Just as Brian Albe and Brandon Belluscio gave the old-f
October 8, 2009Food Events to Sink Your Teeth Into
Have you been to Tryst yet? I visited Delray Beach's Official Beer and Tapas Clubhouse on Tuesday night, and I was reminded again how great this place is. With exposed brick, dark wood, and antique furniture, it has the vibe of a retro speakeasy (since there's no secret password, it's packed to the rafters even on weekdays). Tryst also sports one of the sexiest courtyards you could possibly dine in, with miniature gazebos and tropical plants stretching up to the two-story roof. If you sit ins
October 8, 2009A Love Story With Bologna Sandwiches
Photo by Flickr user dtredinnick13There's an episode of Pee-wee's Playhouse in which Pee-wee is talking about how much he loves fruit salad, and Miss Yvonne says that if he loves it so much, maybe he should marry it. So he does. Now, I like a guy with the courage of his convictions, but for me, well, it's about bologna sandwiches. Had my wife Joanna not moved back when she did ... well, let's just say that my wedding reception would have had to have crazy-good AC to keep my in-laws from spoil
October 9, 2009Dine Out Lauderdale at Cafe Maxx Works Like a Charm
Last week we suggested our top five Dine Out Lauderdale choices, a list punctuated by one Cafe Maxx. Based on our visit this week, we were right: Cafe Maxx has come up with a spectacular Dine Out menu that gives you more than just a little sample of the restaurant's extensive bill of fare, it manages to be a rewarding meal worth making the special trip for.Maxx has been around for a quarter century now, yet it still remains one of the more interesting restaurants in Broward. A big part of tha
October 9, 2009Cheap Wine That Doesn't Suck
No wine gets a blanc stare faster than Chenin Blanc. It may be the white wine grape of France's Loire Valley, but in these parts, you see it about as often as snow drifts on Ocean Drive. It had a few minutes of fame in the 1960s and 1970s and showed up in more than its share of cheap white wine blends, but unless you go to South Africa or France, your chances of finding Chenin Blanc as a standalone varietal are pretty small. This is really quite the pisser, as Chenin Blanc can be made
October 12, 2009Bamboo Fire is Hot Stuff in Delray
If you're not a subscriber to our weekly Café Bites dining newsletter for Broward and Palm Beach counties, here's a taste of what you missed this week. Click here to subscribe. Photo by Flickr user eastbayjayYou've probably heard about all hot stuff going on along Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach. Linda Bean's (as in L.L.) Perfect Maine Lobster Roll just opened (check back for a First Look next week). David Manero's The Of-fice (in the old Louie Louie Too space) is under major construction,
October 13, 2009Order Up: Mustard Seed Bistro
John LinnOne of Mustard Seed's signature dishes is the roasted duck with cherry gastrique. On deck this week: our review of Mustard Seed Bistro, a quaint French-inspired eatery in Cooper City. It's the product of Tim and Lara Boyd, a pair of restaurateurs now in their second location since selling Plantation's Upper Crust Cafe in 2004. Like their last effort, Milk and Honey, the Mustard Seed makes use of timeless bistro dishes like tuna Nicoise and French onion soup, each plating with an extr
October 13, 2009The Mustard Seed Bistro in Cooper City Works With a Very Specific Crowd
October 15, 2009Latitudes Beach Café Makes Us Wonder About that Top Chef Thing
October 15, 2009Lovin' Gets Greasy at Grampa's Bakery in Dania Beach
Photo by Flickr user BowhausOK, so he spent the night. Sue me. I'm a grown woman with needs, for goodness' sakes. Said "needs" also entitle me to three or more meals a day -- I'm hypoglycemic, so there's a legitimate reason for my steady appetite -- and by morning I was simply ravenous. For those of you who "forgot" to read last week's column or too quickly relegated it to become the liner for your pet iguana's cage, I introduced you to my new amour, a darling boy who suffers from one bi
October 14, 2009Anatomy of a Bad Meal at Latitudes Beach Cafe
John LinnMiso sea bass at Latitudes: Oh, the humanity.Last week I checked out Ron Duprat's restaurant in the Hollywood Beach Marriott, Latitudes Beach Cafe. I high hopes for Duprat's food after catching the Haitian-born chef on this season of the Bravo series Top Chef, even if longtime critic Gail Shepherd had once ravaged the place with such a scathing review you can still hear her pounding on the keyboard as you read it. But that was years ago. Certainly the affable Duprat has come a long w
October 14, 2009Todd English Moving into Seminole Hard Rock?
Surprise! It's Todd English!Jazziz Bistro, the swank supper club in the Seminole Hard Rock and sister "venue" to Jazziz magazine, closed in April of this year. Since then, the site has remained empty, with a lot of speculation as to what is going in there. Now the rumor mill is brewing, and some are saying celebrity chef Todd English will be the one to move into the spot with a brand new restaurant. At least, that would explain his number of recent appearances around South Florida. Spokespers
October 14, 2009L'Hermitage Pairs Organic Veggies and Wine
If you're not a subscriber to our weekly Café Bites dining newsletter for Broward and Palm Beach counties, here's a taste of what you missed this week. Click here to subscribe.Photo by Flickr user Mia ElliottOrganic. It's not just for vegetables any more. It's for wine too, and put both of them together and they're greener than a boatload of Priuses stuffed with free-range tofu. Which is exactly what Christine Najac and Marci Boland are doing with a tasting of organic wines paired to dishe
October 15, 2009Doggie Bag: This Week in Charlie
This week according to Chucky:Like we always say, "the greasier the spoon, the better."Troy's Bar-Be-Que in Boynton Beach has great ribs and pork, but skip the sides.Women love the Frenchified eats at Mustard Seed Bistro in Cooper City.More eateries hit the skids this week, as Italian Oven Cafe and Frankies 124 shove off.Riki greasy spoons with her new beau at Grampa's Bakery.How bad is Top Chef Ron Duprat's Latitudes Beach Cafe? Here's the blow-by-blow.Is celeb chef Todd English opening a th
October 16, 2009Peniel's Palace in Fort Lauderdale Boasts Inexpensive Southern Cooking
October 22, 2009Bamboo Fire Café in Delray Beach Is Worth the Wait
October 22, 2009Reef Rd Opens on Clematis
Can the folks behind Rocco's Tacos do for seafood and rum what Rocco's did for tacos and tequila? We're about to find out with the debut of Reef Rd Rum Bar, which opened right across Clematis Street from the wildly popular nouveau taqueria. Local moguls Big Time Restaurant Group, Rocco Mangel and nitespot hotshot Cleve Mash are all partners in the deal, taking over the old Clematis Social and turning it into a moderately priced seafood shack with a laid-back Key West-y vibe. It do
October 21, 2009Pete's Tuscan Hibachi Grill Closed, to Possibly Reopen in December
Pete's Tuscan Hibachi Grill was the Joey Bishop to Cafe Bella Sera's Sinatra: classy, oddly entertaining, a good sense of humor. But now, the unique concept that fused Japanese hibachi-style cooking with Italian-American eats is officially closed.The Parkland restaurant, which sat right next door to owner Pete Lombard Jr.'s successful Cafe Bella Sera, shut its doors in mid September after struggling to pull its weight in difficult times. Lombard says the restaurant, which he opened in January
October 21, 2009Bova Ristorante in Boca Raton Closes
Florida DesignWith all the restaurants closing their doors lately, it's easy to get a little jaded. But it's a shock when a powerhouse like Bova Ristorante quits, which, according to employees at the restaurant, is just what happened Saturday night.The restaurant, at 1450 N. Federal Highway in Boca Raton, closed for good following service on Saturday evening. It's unclear at this time exactly what led to the closure, but Clean Plate Charlie will keep you posted.Bova's loss is a big one. In 20
October 21, 2009For Stone Crab and More, See the Captain
Now that stone crab season is upon us, you gotta see the Captain. It's Florida lobster season too, so you gotta see the Captain. And if you want live softshell crabs, fresh Cape Canaveral shrimp, pumpkin swordfish, spear-caught hog snapper and more, you gotta see the Captain. "The Captain" would be Capt. Frank's Seafood Market, an unassuming little place just off I-95 in Boynton Beach that, in an age when chain everythings swallow independent operators like a Great White with a mile
October 22, 2009Butts and Cubes? Yeah, Those are Some Good, Cheap Meats
Photo by Flickr user Maddog 20/20Cube steak: Tasty, yes, but cover it in something.Just because it's spendy doesn't make it good, as the series of "Mummy" movies keeps hammering home again and again. But the reverse is true as well: it doesn't have to cost a ton of money to not suck. Witness the $15,000 film Paranormal Activity for example. What does this have to do with meat? Strictly speaking, not much. But as the old adage says, "as goes film, so goes meat," and this week I'm going to look
October 23, 2009Cheap Wine That Doesn't Suck
Three of the iconic white wine grapes in France's Goats Do Roam region are Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Uh, actually, that would be Cotes du Rhone, but to a South African vintner with a sense of humor (and an apparent affection for mondegreens), it would be a cool thing to tweak the stuffy French wine world and give wine drinkers a giggle by naming his line of Rhone-style wines after the goats that do, in fact, roam on his Western Cape estate. So Charles Back created Goats Do
October 26, 2009LOLA Loves and Laughs in Delray
As a philosophy, "Love often, laugh a lot" is not half-bad, certainly better than Jon Gosselin's "Loser often a little shit" or David Carradine's "Lonely onanist loves a knot." As a name for a restaurant it's not bad either; nobody gets into the business unless they love it, and if you don't have a sense of humor you'll go around snarling at puppies and flowers like Dick Cheney. There's no snarling at puppies and flowers at Wendy Rosano's LOLA, her sleek new restaurant and ultra lounge
October 27, 2009Shula's on the Beach
October 29, 2009Carousel Can Can in CityPlace Is All Sexed-Up With Nowhere to Go
October 29, 2009Satoro Restaurant & Lounge
October 29, 2009Top Chef 7 Florida Casting, In Pictures
Jacob KatelProspective Top Chef contestants shoot the shit while they wait their turn to see the casting director.Top Chef 7 is officially on its way to your signal box, and Magical Elves, the production company behind the hit Bravo series, was in Miami on Sunday looking for talent. Prospective contestants turned up for a 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. casting call at Club 50 in Brickell's Viceroy. Chefs from Miami, Ft. Lauderdale, Coconut Creek, Tampa, Orlando, and even Jamaica showed up for the chance
October 28, 2009Top Five South Beach Wine and Food Festival Events Worth Going To
Courtesy of Melissa Horn for New York MagazineTickets went on sale Monday for the 2010 South Beach Wine and Food Festival, that annual event that keeps getting bigger, bigger, bigger. This year, there are nearly three-dozen events to attend, from wine seminars to a tribute dinner for chef Daniel Boulud. In the past, we've dissected the most popular event, the Dionysian free-for-all known as the Grand Tasting Village. This year, we're going to give our picks for the top five events that should
October 28, 2009Dish Deconstructed: Matteo's Linguine Frutti di Maré
Bill CitaraMatteo's is the kind of upscale Italian-American restaurant that's as common as Botoxed foreheads and lipo-ed thighs in its tony Boca Raton neighborhood. The menu doesn't plow any new culinary ground, but what it does it does pretty well, and one dish it does really well is the classic linguine frutti di maré. Too many Italian-esque restaurants in these parts just sling a bunch of seafood into a marinara sauce and call it done, making what should be a dish of some deli
October 29, 2009Elevation Burger Coming to Coral Springs, Grand Openings in Hollywood
• Who says the hamburger has to be the symbol of American junk food? Not Hans Hess, founder of Arlington, VA based chain, Elevation Burger. The recently franchised burger hut pays much credence to its slogan, "Ingredients Matter," building its double-meat patties out of 100% organic, free-range, grass-fed beef. The company also promises all its ingredients -- including toppings like caramelized onions and hot pepper relish -- are fully sustainable, and local when possible. There's even a bu
October 29, 2009Rock 'N' Roll Ribs Pairs Metal with Barbecue in Coral Springs
Nicko McBrain behind the kit.For nearly 30 years, drummer Nicko McBrain has toured the world as part of one of the greatest rock bands of all time, Iron Maiden. He's played arenas and festivals, in front of tens of thousands of people in places Bangalore, India and Gothenburg, Sweden, and hundreds of thousands in Brazil. And throughout that time traveling from city to city, McBrain didn't just perform great; he also ate exceptionally well. Now McBrain -- who lives in South Florida when he's n
October 30, 2009The Office in Delray Beach Snags Mark Militello
Photo by Jacob KatelChef Mark MilitelloChef Mark Militello has left 1 Bleu at the One Resort and Spa (formerly The Regent Bal Harbour) to join The Office, a gastropub in Delray said to be opening in late November. Last December Militello took the reigns as executive chef of culinary operations at The Regent Bal Harbour. That was only six months after the last of his four namesake restaurants, Mark's in Boca Raton's Mizner Park, closed. The Regent Bal Harbour was sold in June. The Office is t
November 3, 2009Callaro's Prime in Manalapan Serves Up Old-Fashioned, Beefy Indulgence
November 5, 2009Chef Tommy Valdes at Trattoria Bella Cibo in Margate Makes His Pitch
November 5, 2009Roxy's Rocks on the Roof
If you want to get high at Roxy's, come Saturday, Nov. 28, you actually can. Legally, even. That's when the Clematis Street complex that includes Roxy's Pub, 10@2 Saloon and Rome Nightclub is throwing a street-wide beerfest to celebrate the debut of its rooftop bar and restaurant, Roxy's on the Roof. The 7,500-square-foot space will feel like de islands, mon, complete with palm trees, waterfalls, bamboo, a gazebo, twin bars and 1,500-square-food teak dance floor. There will be liv
November 4, 2009Unbelievable Dessert: Baklava Cheesecake at Satoro in Hollywood
The best thing I ate at my recent visit to Satoro Restaurant and Lounge in Hollywood was dessert. Which is not to say the rest of the meal I enjoyed a few days back was a disappointment -- on the contrary, the meal whipped up by chef Alexander Dziurzynski formerly of Jackson's Steakhouse was exceptional. But I was blown away by the baklava cheese cake infused with goat cheese, a dessert so perfectly constructed it ranks among the finest I've ever tasted.First, you'll have to excuse the s
November 4, 2009Even Fast-Food Giants Know: It's Not Hard to Make an Awesome Wing
Photo by Flickr user sokolokophotoI hate chain restaurants, and they seem to be multiplying. Every time I turn around, there's another squatting smugly across the parking lot from Best Buy or snuggled into the corner of a mall, waiting for trans-fat-hungry customers to order some sort of deep-fried, oversauced platter of bulk-purchased protein, served up by a toothy waitron wearing a metric ton of flair.Despite the best efforts of these culinary chop shops, there's one decent dish many of the
November 6, 2009
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