100 Favorite Dishes: Anticuchos From Taurus Steakhouse
No. 87: Anticuchos from Taurus Steakhouse
The Peruvian street food anticuchos is a dish with magnetic
properties -- you're either instantly attracted to or completely
repelled by it. The grilled chunks of meat are actually beef hearts.
But if they're rendered properly -- like the ones at Taurus Steakhouse
in Tamarac -- they taste more like fine tenderloin than gamey offal. At Taurus, the anticuchos come in kebab-sized pieces, marinated in
cumin and garlic and grilled to a satisfying char. Picked off long
wooden skewers and dunked in a half-dozen Peruvian sauces, the result
is powerfully beefy, like how the adrenaline-filled flesh of a prized
fighting bull might taste after battle. Peruvians clamor for the organ
meat, and for good reason: You take a bite of the snappish flesh and
imagine that it's somehow imparting upon you the very essence of that
magnificent creature. It's an experience so intoxicating, it borders on
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