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  • Article

    The Switzerland of Pupusas

    Since it's neither Salvadoran nor Honduran, Fort Lauderdale's Guatemala Restaurant (3673 Davie Blvd., 954-792-9737) is not the first, second, or 19th place that most people would look for pupusas, but the tiny establishment with just five stools and ...

    by Steve Koppelman on October 27, 2005
  • Article

    Columbus Day Unplugged - We skip the parade and head for the fettuccini

    When the International Federation of Competitive Eating polled 1,000 "eating athletes" for its Columbus Day pasta poll in 2003, it discovered that in matters fettuccini, there's a woeful historical ignorance among our pasta-eating elite. Only 43 perc...

    by Gail Shepherd on October 20, 2005
  • Article

    Come Sail Away - On the MS Zuiderdam, we are what we eat

    Once, I was a queen... I parked my fat white ass in a deck chair while impoverished brown people from Third World countries scurried around to satisfy my every whim. Caviar? Champagne? I had only to waggle a pinkie. And if, during my five-course dinn...

    by Gail Shepherd on October 13, 2005
  • Article

    Prime-al Scene

    While we Palm Beach downtown-watchers weren't watching, something weird happened. West Palm Beach, with all its pomp and hubris, its master plans, mayoral specifying, scads of money, and fancypants developers, went precisely nowhere. Meanwhile, the l...

    by Gail Shepherd on October 13, 2005
  • Article

    Cesar's Palace - Hoboken Grill draws chi-chi crowds to the 'hood

    To get to Hoboken Grill, you must pass briefly through a black hole. It's a lightless, uninhabited corridor of Dixie Highway, a no-fly zone between downtown West Palm Beach and the cozily gentrified neighborhood of Old Northwood. There's not a single...

    by Gail Shepherd on October 6, 2005
  • Article

    Sexi Mexi - Two new Boca restaurants head south of the border

    This place is already dated," my significant other announced as she settled into her hand-hewn wooden chair at MoQuila and lifted artisanal glassware to lips. "In ten years, we'll look back at this and say, "My God, that was so '05." All the same, ...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 29, 2005
  • Article

    Peas Porridge Haute - You won't miss the meat at Sublime's chef demos

    Rotting animal carcasses." That's the second time Terry Dalton had used that phrase. Or maybe he'd said "a plate of animal carcasses" the first time; I was too busy losing my appetite to get his words down exactly. Dalton was referring to what you ...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    Poutine Beat

    When I was 5 years old, my family moved to suburban Montreal. In the winter, we'd bundle up in snowsuits and have snowball fights and dig tunnels through the mounds of snow where the sidewalks used to be. In the summers, I remember the local Dairy Qu...

    by Steve Koppelman on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    Lost at Sea - The not-so-mysterious disappearance of Charley's Crab

    They called it the "storm of the century." But that was in 1993, and by now we know we were in for bigger, badder storms before the end of the millennium. Still, that unnamed freak March tempest killed as many people in Florida as Hurricane Andrew an...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 15, 2005
  • Article

    CoCo So-So - More proof that money can't buy happiness

    Like I've always said: Never trust a food critic. There she'll go, raving about "authentic Amazonian twice-baked piranha" at some impossible-to-find dive. You trek 80 minutes through Cat 2 squalls to get there, and the fish tastes like twice-baked Ni...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 8, 2005
  • Article

    Aloo? Bless You

    There aren't enough good Indian restaurants in South Florida to satisfy anybody with a passion for the complex, hearty cuisine of the land of the tiger. So when I got word that a tiny caf serving aloo, paneer, pakoras, and real tandoori-baked breads...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 8, 2005
  • Article

    The Angel Has Landed - Serafina ups the ante in Victoria Park

    Serafina means "angel" in Italian, and I guess with the right sky-blue backdrop, a little otherworldly lighting, and the wistful notes of a discrete off-stage choir, you could mistake Shari Woods for one of those heavenly creatures. That is, if angel...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    Too Darned Hot

    My thermometer may read 103, but I've found a foolproof way to console myself. Summer's a great time to be a glutton. Everybody's offering deals. Those frigid restaurants I was priced out of in January are suddenly wooing me like lovesick suitors wit...

    by Gail Shepherd on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    The Big Cantonese-y - This is a shopping center for epicures

    An old strip mall with a gun range, a temp agency, and an iffy convenience store isn't the stuff of travel posters or exotic tales. But the Oakland Shopping Center (4101-4351 N. State Road 7, Lauderdale Lakes) has enough Chinese and Vietnamese-orient...

    by Steve Koppelman on August 25, 2005
  • Article

    Wine of the Times

    If you've ever tried to order wine from a Napa vintner, you know that the United States is not a free country when it comes to oenophiliacs. In Florida, wine lovers are second-class citizens, denied our God-given access to the Syrahs, Pinots, and Cab...

    by Gail Shepherd on August 25, 2005
  • Article

    Seafood Soup for the Soul - At Kiko, the omurice is nice, the sushi is dandy, and the prices are nicer

    The late Japanese director Juzo Itami opened his famous '80s film Tampopo with an amusing disquisition on the proper way to eat soup. A Zen master's acolyte wants to know: When faced with the bowl -- soup first? Or noodles? "First, observe the whol...

    by Gail Shepherd on August 18, 2005
  • Article

    We'll Always Have Paris - Whether we like it or not...

    I've been to Paris in August, and it was no picnic. The place is a wasteland of shuttered boulangeries and vacant park benches. The entire country takes a national break in late summer, and you have to be a serious loser to be stuck at some Eiffel To...

    by Gail Shepherd on August 11, 2005
  • Article

    Rich Dish

    If you can afford to dine at Caf L'Europe (331 S. County Rd., Palm Beach, 561-655-4020) on a regular basis, it's unlikely you're sweltering through an August in SoFla. Maybe Norbert and Lidia Goldner, who own this 25-year-old goldmine, know that. To...

    by Gail Shepherd on August 11, 2005
  • Article

    Chardees Cheek to Cheek - Old-fashioned passion in the gay mecca

    "You know what would be perfect?" my significant other mused recently. "One of those places where you get all dressed up and go eat lobster tails and prime rib. And there's a big band playing so you can dance after dinner." "Supper clubs," I said. ...

    by Gail Shepherd on August 4, 2005
  • Article

    True to Their Word - A Tuscan couple mean it when they say "Saporissimo!"

    The guy looming over our table would be scary if you met him in some pitch-black alley at 4 a.m. For one thing, he's big. Pitted face, great bushy brows. For another, he's holding something heavy in his hands. "Excuse me," he says. "My English. Is no...

    by Gail Shepherd on July 28, 2005
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