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  • Article

    The Middle-Aged Man and the Sea

    "I'll never review one of his restaurants again." When I first made that statement last fall, I was referring to renowned chef Robbin Haas, whom I'd tracked from the Colony Bistro on South Beach to BANG on South Beach to Bex up in Boca Raton, onl...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 20, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    The question many diners have is not where to find a fabulous meal, but what to do afterward to prolong the experience. Scents & Cigars (2001 N. Federal Hwy., Pompano Beach, 954-784-1177) has a solution. Located next to Cafe Arugula, one of the best ...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Worth the Wait

    OK, now pay attention -- this is bound to get confusing. Wolfie Cohen does not own Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House. Nor does he or his family own the original Rascal House in North Miami Beach. Cohen died in 1986, and ten years later his relatives, along...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 13, 1998
  • Article

    Return of the Prodigal Chef

    Chefs these days have two choices: Open up your own place, or work for someone else -- restaurateur, hotel, or corporation. Both options require dedication and long hours, but the first also demands vision, good business sense, a well-trained staff, ...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    It all depends on how you take your coffee. I like mine with a dash or two of live music and a couple of lumps of poetry. So when I feel the need for speed, or at least for caffeine, I head over to Warehaus 57 (1904 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 954-92...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 6, 1998
  • Article

    Sheesh Kebab

    Every once in a while, magazines like Conde Nast Traveller and Travel & Leisure hype the same vacation spot. In the early '90s, for instance, Thailand made all the covers, becoming as familiar to readers as Cindy Crawford is to subscribers of Cosmopo...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    In a city crammed with chain pizza joints that produce carbon-copy products, it's an unusual relief to find authentic, Milanese-style pies. Caffe Amore (3313 NE 32nd St., Fort Lauderdale, 954-565-2100) bakes outstanding traditional, thin-crust pizzas...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 30, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    Convenience is just about the biggest turn-on for me these days, but I find it hard to force myself to visit the drive-through windows of fast-food restaurants, even when I'm desperately hungry. Recently I solved that problem by putting gas in my car...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 23, 1998
  • Article

    Here Today, Gone to Maui

    When Brooke Lee, a Hawaiian woman, was named Miss USA in 1997, pageant experts correctly predicted she'd also take the title of Miss Universe. Their reasoning was simple: Lee's ancestry is multicultural, so her brunette good looks are at once domesti...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 23, 1998
  • Article

    Brave New World

    Where does a young chef go after he's sauteed for Madonna and filleted for Sylvester Stallone? What can he do after he's worked with a South Florida pioneer like Mark Militello (who helped coin the phrase "New World cuisine") and then hopscotched amo...

    by Jay Cheshes on July 16, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    Dim sum is the feast of a Chinese brunch, available in any urban Chinatown, that includes a dizzying array of dumplings, noodles, and barbecued meats. The problem in satisfying a dim sum craving is that such a feast rarely lends itself to dining solo...

    by Jay Cheshes on July 16, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    These days folks are stuffing all kinds of things inside the familiar pita. But tofu and alfalfa sprouts are not what Middle Eastern bakers had in mind when they invented the flat, round pocket bread. Luckily, small places abound where you can find a...

    by Jay Cheshes on July 9, 1998
  • Article

    Stagin' Cajun

    A disturbing trend is sweeping through South Florida. I like to think of it as the "theme-parkization" of good taste. It's a Disney-style, mass-market approach to repackaging urban trends in food, drink, and entertainment in which bigger, louder, and...

    by Jay Cheshes on July 9, 1998
  • Article

    The Lip of Luxury

    You make a commitment to part with a significant amount of cash when you give your car keys to the young man handling the valet parking outside what may be the trendiest restaurant in Palm Beach. Any other time of year, that same young man would prob...

    by Jay Cheshes on July 2, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    Larry Harris is the Colonel Sanders of South Florida -- an hombre who knows his pollo. You may want to get to know his pollo, too. There are almost a dozen fast-food joints in Broward and Palm Beach counties where you can sample Harris' pollo (that's...

    by Jay Cheshes on July 2, 1998
  • Article

    Ode to a Grecian Tavern

    When do you yell "opa"? A) When the fire from a plate of flaming Greek cheese races toward the ceiling. B) While smashing a shot glass into the floor after an exceptional Greek meal. C) After you've downed so much ouzo you feel you're on top of Mount...

    by Jay Cheshes on June 25, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    Where can you find a Swiss corkscrew, Danish cookware, a Japanese spiral vegetable-cutter, and dips and sauces from New York to the Mojave Desert? All these items and some 10,000 more are tucked into every nook and cranny of Charlene Caruso and Marga...

    by Jay Cheshes on June 25, 1998
  • Article

    Pro Fusion

    I once rode an ostrich across the dusty grasslands of the Great Karroo, the vast savanna in the South African heartland. My wild ride lasted but a few seconds. The big, stupid bird took off with a jolt, and I quickly slid off its tail feathers and in...

    by Jay Cheshes on June 18, 1998
  • Article

    Foodstuff

    The three-year-old Kilwin's franchise on Las Olas Boulevard (809 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-523-8338) is time travel for the sweet tooth. They have enough old-fashioned fudge and homemade peanut brittle to transport you to small-town Mic...

    by Jay Cheshes on June 18, 1998
  • Article

    Speed Limits

    Walk into your average mall's food court, and you can order fast Chinese, fast Mexican, fast Italian, even fast Middle Eastern (hummus and falafel). There are certain cuisines, however, that have stubbornly refused to become fast. And Indian cooking,...

    by Steve Capellini on June 11, 1998
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