Boca Raton's Rib Bizz Needs a Barbecue Makeover

Curtis and Marquita Houston's barbecue haven moved from its longtime Boynton Beach location to north Boca Raton in March. The new digs are more spacious, with a 50-seat dining room that wraps around the restaurant's sunny halls. The staff's disposition is just as cheery, which is good, since Rib Bizz is a full-service cue joint. What it serves isn't perfect barbecue, but Rib Bizz does some things very well. First, the downside: The namesake ribs are more grilled than smoked, and the racks are rather skimpy, studded with shiners (bones peeking through the meat). But they do sport an excellent and unconventional rub with big flecks of herb and spice. A big-ass pulled-pork sandwich dubbed the "porker" has crisp cole slaw and a great bun, but the pork is dry and flavorless, like it sat in a holding tray for too long. The sides, however, are all great. Collard greens are bittersweet and studded with pork; the beans have too much brown sugar but balance out thanks to the addition of ground beef and bacon. Prices are cheap enough to make it a decent spot for locals, but the barbecue needs improvement to make it a long-range destination.

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