Straightforward is the word I hear most when chefs and managers describe dishes at South Florida restaurants, be it the most humble local joint or the newest brasserie with access to the ocean. It's an apt description of the food at Boston's on the Beach in Delray Beach, the institution that reopened last week after it had been closed for six months of renovations.
for the food yet, but it's next to the beach." With a table as close to the ocean as you can get, the hostess secured us a table for five.
Featuring fresh, reasonably priced seafood that's simply prepared, Boston's would suit fans of clam bakes ($18 to $25), whole lobster (market), fried seafood baskets ($16), and a thyme-infused rendition of New England clam chowder ($5). If you're looking for local seafood -- as the name suggests -- you're in the wrong place.
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I can't yet speak to 50 Ocean's fancier menu upstairs. With the weather as lovely as it has been, outside is the place to sit, on the extensive covered patio with plenty
of elbow room, right across the street from the surf. Despite ocean access, it's far from the maddening crowd, offering terrific service from start to finish.