For far more authentic -- and far-flung -- "nuevo Latino" cooking, try Café con Leche (7721 Lake Worth Rd., Greenacres, 561-439-8899). The place is owned by Roy Burdier, a Dominican whose little slice of good eating next to Publix in the Nassau Square Mall makes the playful sophistication of Cabana seem like so much fluff. It's a ten-table spot with a Tiki hut out front that hits all the right notes.
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A reader turned me on to Burdier's establishment and, multiple exclamation points aside, was right about many of her comments. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily), the café is not long on pizzazz. The simple tables with candles, the living room chairs in the front of the long, narrow room, and the Gipsy Kings on the sound system won't make you think you're glamour-dining further east on Lake Worth Road.
But good food is good food, and I would gladly travel to a town actually called Greenacres and suffer through 15 versions of "Guantanamera" to get another shot at Roy's chicken tostados.
Caf con Leche
Entrée prices ($7.95 to $11.95) give you large portions of such well-delivered and singularly seasoned Latin classics as beef stew, roast pork and beans, and chicken criollo. You'd also be foolish to miss the worth-repeating shrimp and avocado relleño appetizer ($7.95). Or the tostones relleños. Or, for that matter, some of the best coffee I've tasted in South Florida... or the flan ($2.50) fit for Princess Sophie of Spain ... or the warm chocolate lava cake ($4.95)... or...
Café con Leche serves beer and is unself-conscious enough to offer early-bird specials for $8.95. A visit here proves one thing: You can take it with you, either on your hips or in your memories.