Italian restaurants are a lira a dozen, but every once in a while one stands out. Al & Jay's Pasta Kitchen (2399 N. Federal Hwy., Boca Raton, 561-392-6770) is just such a place, and not because the storefront trattoria is pleasant and colorful and the classic Italian dishes well executed. A couple details make this place rise above the rest: All pasta dishes, either baked or tossed in sauté pans with sauces, are served in said pans, which keeps them hot long after they've been brought to the table; and for an extra $4.50, you can add lobster meat to any item. Fans of the fall season who miss the changing of the leaves up north may also want to take advantage of my favorite concoction: pumpkin-stuffed tortellini in a creamy sage sauce.
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