Gaia Ristorante opens today at the Hilton Bentley Hotel at 101 Ocean Drive in South Beach. This is the latest venture from Tommy Billante, the man behind Carpaccio, Luna, and a whole bunch of other successful Italian places. Gaia moves into the space formerly occupied by Vivi, one of Billante's few failures. Chef Gaetano Ascione orchestrates the menu of regional, seasonal Italian food; the only thing I know about Gaetano Ascione is that he's got a great name for the job. And all I know about Gaia is that Mr. Billante has a knack for coming through with excellent Italian fare at moderate prices. Call 305-672-6624 for reservations.