The only unfortunate thing about this Broward version of the Miami Lakes eatery is the location: Hidden away in a corner of a mostly vacant retail complex, Green Papaya is almost impossible to see from busy Atlantic Boulevard. But the wafting smell of simmering pho will command you to stay a while. The menu is small but authentic, and everything is less than $10. Bun bo hue ups the pho game with spicy broth that's laced with thick noodles, meaty slivers of beef, and fatty chunks of succulent pork. Noodle bowls with chewy Hanoi pork are fun to play with, thanks to the accompanying fish sauce, sriracha, hoisin, bean sprouts, and basil. There are also less common finds, like grilled white fish over rice, Mekong River shrimp, and Hau Giang barbecue pork chops. But the best thing about Green Papaya is the sweet, frosty boba smoothies served in old-fashioned milk-shake glasses. The tapioca pearls swimming in frosty swirls of mocha, papaya, sour sop, and even avocado are puffy and soft and great fun to slowly slurp up in a quiet corner of the restaurant.
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