Immunized from Criticism
I do so love a man with a sense of humor. Not that I'm going to harbor any illicit feelings toward the proprietor of the Harbor Grille (815 NE Third St., Dania Beach, 954-927-3232), Neil Zucker. But he's thoroughly won my admiration with his response to a critical review I published in May of last year about his restaurant, during which I discussed the ramifications of having servers who wielded rusty corkscrews. Instead of weeping and moaning and writing to the editor, Zucker and his bartender immediately whipped up a new drink in our honor -- the "New Times Tetanus Shot," a blend of one half-ounce light rum, one half-ounce dark rum, one half-ounce Nassau Royale, equal parts pineapple and orange juice, and a splash of grenadine with a 151 float. Zucker assures me that not only is it a perfectly ugly rust color but that it "will end whatever ails you." Indeed the Tetanus Shot, along with Zucker's willingness to spin a negative into a positive, has no doubt helped cure the Harbor Grille, if the success of Zucker's second venture, Forte Jazz Café, is anything to go by.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.