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Las Colinas in Wilton Manors Serves Up Lunch-Counter Cuban

Las Colinas means "the hills," and you get a mountain of rice with the dinners.
Las Colinas means "the hills," and you get a mountain of rice with the dinners.
Photos by Eric Barton

There have been plenty of attempts to fancy up Cuban cuisine. There's the overrated Versailles, and the Cabana restaurants in West Palm and Delray do a good Cuban-Caribbean fusion.

But the truth is, a fine ropa vieja can be found at lunch-counter Cuban joints, like Las Colinas, a Wilton Manors restaurant that does a brisk lunch business out of its takeout window.

You won't get Versailles-style circumstance here -- just simple Cuban dishes served on plastic plates. The glass tabletops hide the huge

menus underneath, and the lunch counter faces the tiny, open kitchen.

The chicken salteado.
The chicken salteado.



Here,

the ropa vieja ($6.95) comes with a thin and somewhat oily gravy, but

the flavor shows it has been simmered long till tender. The chicken

salteado ($8.95) is lightly seasoned, mostly with just salt and the

well-cooked peppers and onions covering it. The maduros are sautéed

until the edges of the sweet plantains become carmelized and crisp.

Las

Colinas does a brisk business for its pressed sandwiches, which include

a half-dozen varieties of Cubans. But it's probably best-known for the

breakfasts (it won Best Cheap Breakfast from New Times

in 2004), which scans the gamut of the Americas, from huevos rancheros

to eggs with chorizo. With a coffee on the side, the breakfast still

rings up at $5 or less -- the kind of prices we should expect for good

Cuban food.

Las Colinas
2724 N. Andrews Ave., Wilton Manors
954-390-7410

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