Le Sub

Joe Rocco

Every ethnicity has its own type of sandwich, and the French are no exception. Indeed, some -- myself included -- regard French subs to be the rule. Trouble is, few places make authentic ones. Enter Chez Andrée (1000 N. Broadwalk, Hollywood, 954-922-1002). This enterprising beachside spot offers traditional sandwich fare from the croque-monsieur to pork pâté with cornichons on ciabatta. Actually, the menu is more expansive than that; lunch and dinner feature bowls of mussels steamed in white wine, goat cheese salads, baked brie, onion soup gratinée, and roasted duck and duck confit. But when it comes to French charcuterie, you can't beat munching on the dry sausage sandwich, moistened with a drop of butter on the bread and enlivened by a few gherkins, while you watch the wet, loose waves.

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