Meat the Best

Joe Rocco

Peruvians grow something like 35 kinds of maize, from which they've developed more than 50 products. Likewise, Colombia boasts many types of potatoes; Brazil and Argentina have more uses and cuts for beef than a Texas rancher; and nearly every South American country raises an astonishing variety of peppers, beans, and squash. For a taste of these wonders, check out Latinos Meat Market (1718 W. Hillsboro Blvd., Deerfield Beach, 954-418-0503). The imported products, crammed into this small space, represent Peru, Colombia, Brazil, and Argentina, among others, and range from maiz cancha (popcorn) to mote pelado (golden hominy) and papa seca amarilla (dried yellow potatoes) to gnoqui de papa manja (potato dumplings). Nor does it matter which accent you use to speak your Spanish, even at the busy butchered meat counter. In fact, you don't have to know Spanish at all. All you have to do is appreciate your own carnivorous nature, scout the rumps of beef and coils of sausages, and point to the most tender -- and most reasonably priced -- steaks you've had this far north of the pampas.

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