I expected not to like Callaro's Prime, a very old-fashioned steak house in Manalapan and subject of this week's Dish review. But my friend and New Times' theater critic Brandon K. Thorp convinced me the 8-year-old gin joint can cook the hell out of a steak. We dined there a couple of weeks ago before an opening at the Florida Stage next door, and I have to admit I was won over by the wet-aged, USDA prime, 24-ounce porterhouse I ordered. (The play we saw? Not so much.) The full review drops tomorrow. Until then, here's an excerpt to sate your appetite:
At nearly two inches thick, my porterhouse came hoisted on a super-heated metal platter, hissing and popping in protest as if the cow was, in some way, still fighting back. Indeed it was an angry piece of meat: It had seared to the tray in places, forming a brilliant black char, and spat juices across the tablecloth for a good five minutes after being set down. I cut off a hunk from the tender filet side and alternated that with bites from the strip and bits of baked potato oozing with whipped butter and sour cream.
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264 S. Ocean Blvd., Manalapan