There's no shortage of options when it comes to fine Italian dining, which is why our review this week looks at Caruso Ristorante from that angle -- if you had to choose a pasta joint to throw down your hard-earned clams at, would this be it?
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I've already mentioned the antipasto platter, which comes complimentary at the start of each meal. This painting-like presentation is composed of whatever Teodosi deems fresh and flavorful. There are house-roasted red peppers, squash, and grilled zucchini. White cannelloni beans are tossed with arugula and bits of imported tuna; miniature omelets are like custardy cakes made rich with olive oil. And then, there's simplicity: a wonderfully ripe grape tomato bursting with juice, graced with the faintest drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a smattering of sea salt and cracked pepper. Or a vibrant green olive, its flesh as taut and firm as an Italian goddess'.