South Florida's Taco Boon in Tough Times
driving question behind this week's column is, Why are so many chefs
opening taco stands in this area? I went to every taco joint that has opened in the
a slew of cheap ass burrito joints.
The proliferation of taco restaurants reminds me
of an extremely profitable take out spot in DC that was started by a trio of Georgetown
grads in 2007 who are connected to the food world luminaries such as Danny Meyer and
others in New York.
Their concept, Sweetgreen, is an organic, locally
sourced salad and yogurt shop in a stylish setting. The shop
pleased the business set that wanted healthier options. It pleased
fro-yo fans at the peak of the trend. And in the lowest point of the
recession in 2008, while other restaurateurs were struggling to break even, I reported for Washington Post Express that
these guys made at 25 percent profit in their first year, at age 22.
Most restaurants are lucky if they bring in a 10% profit. Their concept was a gold mine. Five years later, the trio has opened ten shops, with plans for national expansion
In 2011, still hobbled by recession, Lauderdale and its taco shops are DC's salad stands, providing inexpensive food that's not as finicky as burgers for example; a concept that doesn't require as much labor as a bistro or fine dining place; and one that allows for chefs
to show off skill while cutting the expense of running restaurant.
choosing El Jefe Luchador, Jo-Jo's Taco, and Taco Beach Shack, the combination of their pedigree and the
quality of the product helped me narrow down which shops were the focus in this week's review.
Will shops such as Jo Jo's, El Jefe Luchador, and Taco Beach Shack strain the businesses of the mom and pop shops so beloved by commenters such as this one?
missed the best taco shops in the county, and they aren't these main
stream wannabees either. Alegria on Andrews is a true taco shop and
would put any of these to shame any day of the week. El Guanaco on
Oakland Park would as well. Please, when you do articles about mexican
street tacos, don't use people who used to be celebrity chefs, whose
likeness is the main reason you promote these places. Focus on the REAL
mexican street food that Broward lacks so much of.
I'm guessing that for now, there's room for both. Food lovers like this guy aren't likely to pay a couple of extra bucks per taco just because a fancy chef is making street fare. There's something to be said to patronizing authentic, hole in the wall places, particularly for foodies. And there's nothing like dirt cheap eats, especially when they're delicious.
But perhaps I'm wrong and haven't seen the ebb and flow of which restaurants live and die around here, and why. Perhaps you can enlighten me in the comments.
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