The Wings at Roosters in Margate Lose Something in Transition
Thirty years of deep-frying wings in one building builds a lot of history (and plaque in a lot of arteries). Even so, Roosters packed up the poultry operation in May 2008, moving from the dark, wood-paneled confines of its longtime Southgate Boulevard location to a shiny new space just a few blocks down the road. The new restaurant feels more like a modern sports bar than a wing shack, with a full liquor bar and flat-screen TVs tuned to Chicago games whenever they're on. As far as the wings go, something was lost in the transition: Where Rooster's wings were once the sauciest, biggest, juiciest around, they're now just the average-est. What remains intact, however, are quirky, Midwest rarities like the Illinois-style pork tenderloin sandwich, a pounded-flat pork schnitzel that looks like a Frisbee layered between two halves of a bun. Native Midwesterners go crazy for this sandwich — it's likely the only one you'll find in South Florida. Also in that vein is the Cincinnati-style chili served over spaghetti and "chicken thumbs," an anatomical pun on the chicken finger.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.