Each step of construction at 13|Even was a labor of love. It began with a raw, empty white room. Then, as photos show, the weathered chocolate-brown wood bar was framed. Later, test stripes of different colors were painted onto a wall so owners could decide which hue to choose (ultimately, a rich orange-red). Then, proprietors Nancy Goldwin and Carol Moran, who also own the landmark lesbian bar New Moon about a half-mile north on Wilton Drive, built tables themselves and went on an Etsy binge, using the crafting website to scoop up recycled chairs and barstools and handmade light fixtures.When I tried them, the half-dozen Gulf oysters ($9) were an eater's version of Russian roulette. Some hit the spot, a touch briney and creamy, while others tasted terrifying — powerfully salty with a metallic tang. The pretense of a globally inspired small-plates menu is played out by now, and the sole Spanish tapas dish is patatas bravas ($5), which brought cubed, underseasoned, home-fries-like potatoes topped with bland tomato sauce and an overcooked quail egg. But any disappointments with the food can largely be forgiven, because the motto here is "good juju" (karma), and the space feels as much like a cozy hangout as it does a restaurant.
Read the full review of 13 Even in Wilton Manors.
