Totoritas Restaurant

You can't miss the place: An oversized red-and-white Peruvian flag, nearly always stretched taut in the breezes that whip across the North Perry Airport, perches atop the storefront eatery, serving as a beacon for all lovers of the Andean nation's sophisticated cuisine. Inside the tiny, wood-paneled dining room, this third outpost of the Las Totoritas chain (the other two are in Miami-Dade County) serves a dizzying variety of Peruvian specialties: lomo saltado (sautéed beef with onions and tomatoes), chicharrón de pollo (deep-fried yet delicately flavored chicken chunks), Creole seafood stew, and yucca fries with hauncaina. As for seafood: The jalea is a mouthwatering mound of gently fried squid, octopus, shrimp, and corvina (sea bass) tossed with red onions, tomatoes, and a handful of fresh cilantro. The same fruits of the sea show up in the cebiche mixto but are instead marinated in lemon juice for at least a day, giving them a tart tenderness perfectly complemented by the brightness of the onions and cilantro that accompany this dish, truly a (South) American beauty.