All right-thinking people can agree that restaurant chains are an abomination before God, man, and Bobby Flay. Boca's City Fish Market is, yes, a chain restaurant, one of two City Fish Markets of the Atlanta-based Buckhead Life Restaurant Group and one of the firm's 14 upscale eateries in Georgia and South Florida. On the other hand, you can't argue with what's on the plate. (Actually, you can, but that makes you an idiot.) And what's on the plate at City Fish is just damned good. Whether posh oysters Rockefeller or crisp-fried calamari with a Thai-style chili sauce, a slab of meaty yellowfin tuna simply broiled with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice, or Parmesan-crusted Scottish salmon served with a crispy basil-flecked potato cake that alone is worth the price of admission, the seafood here is fresh and exactingly prepared and will make you rethink the notion that this chain, at least, is an abomination.