Best Of :: Food & Drink
Some things about America really are all they're cracked up to be. Like the diner: lots of chrome, a carousel of cakes, raspy grandmas behind the Formica counter, and free refills in a tiny mug. Occupy a booth or air your grievances at the counter: This is food for the 99 percent at its most satisfying and no-nonsense. Chicken-fried steak is a crispy caloric splurge; an omelet's enough to see you through most of the day. For a few bucks, you can dig into a more advanced diner staple like a meat-loaf sandwich, or check out the full dinners to forget about all those fussy ahi tuna sliders you've been scarfing with your silly nouveau-riche pals. It's a great place to bring friends from out of town on the way to or from the airport; those from more diner-friendly climes will quickly recognize Lester's as the real deal. The loyal clientele includes cops, firefighters, and other such people you really should be eating breakfast with more often.
Lauren DeShields is a young chef with discipline. She assembles dish after graceful dish with local products that transform the craft of cooking into an art. An acolyte of chef Dean Max of 3030 Ocean, DeShields is among the most pedigreed young chefs in town. If you've got coin, splurge for the grand tasting menu: a 17-course tour de force full of surprises, from the amuse-bouche teaser down to the whimsy of dessert. You may find the snapper and shrimp ceviche layered with red pepper, lime, and cilantro — a palate cleanser with a bite of heat. Or antelope — a brawny plate, dressed in savory soy and ginger marinade, served over a bed of quinoa. You may wrap things up with a cheese course, with raw-milk blue and Morimoto Soba Ale cheddar. Served with a tangy beet/date chutney and Marcona almonds, they're one of many delicious bites on a memorable journey.
There's a danger in getting too attached to any one dish at Dennis Max's "farm to fork" restaurant in Pineapple Grove. Although one may be tempted to develop a dependency on pan-seared gnocchi spiked with morel mushrooms and truffled fondue, or a tempura-battered squash blossom stuffed with creamy goat cheese, that would be a mistake. With its reliance on purveyors like Green Cay Farms, Heritage Hen Farm, and Farmer Jay Pure Organics, the restaurant's daily menu depends entirely on what is good, fresh, and sustainable. There are mainstays, of course, but dishes evolve with the seasons, following nature's arc of availability. With two outdoor seating areas (one streetside and the other on a quieter back patio complete with a waterfall) and two dining rooms, the environs can vary just as much as the offerings on the table. The kitchen is open, a wise design move that gives diners a bit of a show. Executive chef Chris Miracolo and crew work magic with their fleeting stock, finessing, say, something as flat as microgreens into a vessel that one uses to sop up every last speckle of a guava pepper jelly. If it's something you can't live without, order seconds. Nature is an ever-fluctuating supplier, and Max's Harvest intends to keep up.
Shortly after Tap 42 opened, New Times panned it in a January review, and commenters on Yelp and Urbanspoon went nuts complaining of lax service and uneven food. Some restaurants shutter after such a rough start, but Tap 42 responded by hiring a new chef, a new manager, and a staff that's nearly unrecognizable from opening night. The changes are dramatic. The service is now spot-on, with a staff that's educated about the extensive beer, bourbon, and wine lists. The kitchen is putting out consistently stellar food, from a burger that's among the best around to salads locally sourced at Marando Farms. Then there's the stunning space, including a sweeping bar backsplash made of 15,000 pennies and cross-cut wood beams that are sunk into the back wall. The bar has been crowded since day one, but where you'd once hear grumbling about servers who'd gone missing and food that came out wrong, nowadays the talk is about Tap 42's comeback.
The naysayers claimed it couldn't be done. They sniffed and smirked, saying a noodle bar with an edgy style and fun concept couldn't survive in a brisket-loving city of grayhairs. But more than half a year after opening, this Mizner Park restaurant can thumb its nose at early detractors. The spot is flourishing, thanks in no small part to the challenging but accessible dishes streaming out of the kitchen during a slamming dinner hour and an aesthetic that is simultaneously trendy and unpretentious. The restaurant specializes in steaming bowls of noodles swimming in fragrant broth, but it's the small plates — a sticky bun crammed with smoky mushrooms, hamachi with grapefruit-ginger poached pears — that give one pause. With a young chef eager to prove her chops and a team of experienced restaurateurs to steer operations, it's a story of controlled experimentation — and South Florida diners are fortunate to reap the results.
Angelo Elia has nothing to prove. He has already earned his reputation as a terrific chef, this Florida resident who arrived from the region near Naples, Italy, more than 20 years ago. At his elegant namesake institution and four spinoffs, he offers stunning dishes and graceful service. Humble cuts like osso buco are elevated from simple veal flanks to lust-worthy plates, served with sides of marrow. Carbonara is the perfect combination of egg, cheese, guanciale, and herbs on homemade pasta. Some recipes come straight from Elia's mother's restaurants in Italy, and many of his ingredients are well-traveled too, all the way down to imported yeast. An original DIY-er, Elia makes bread in-house and makes some cheeses too. He employs four pizzaiolos, and his restaurants offer the most extensive wine selections around — some 20,000 bottles. Despite all this, he's prepping for more. Two restaurants will debut in Palm Beach County this year, and a bakery and gelateria is on the docket for Delray. Thanks, chef.
Amid the demolition rubble of the Gold Coast skate rink and the Fort Lauderdale airport is the rockabilly haven and cool-cat hangout 5 Points Lounge. This is the type of bar where music lovers flock to relax, kick back, and enjoy some tunes. Dripping in a tiki theme — which works like a dream — dimly lit lanterns dangle up above a well-sized corner bar adorned in bamboo, and a stage is opposite the front door with a cozy lounge area off to the side. Behind the bar, pinup-style girls donning red lips and victory-roll hairstyles serve the drinks. Bonus: No smoking allowed inside. The venue is filled with Polynesian charm and nostalgia from the days of Sailor Jerry, complimenting the style of its neighboring Kreepy Tiki tattoo shop.
Hanging out at the Speakeasy Lounge in Lake Worth is like going to two bars in one night. The front bar area is narrow and cozy. Its long bar has ample seating, ideal for intimate conversations with a date or relaxing after a long day at work. Pass through into the back bar area and it's as though you've entered an entirely new venue. Complete with a stage that's often packed with live music acts or a burlesque show, the second bar area is quite lively. There's even a pool table to keep you occupied.
No, this isn't the most extensive wine list around, but it's among the most welcoming of wine bars. Owner Candace Proctor steers a selection at this locals joint for which Wednesdays and Fridays serve as in-house tasting nights. With more than 150 wines to choose from, this charming spot also knows its pairings and provides tasty delights to complement a glass or bottle. A knowledgeable staff, friendly regulars, and heavy pours cinch its spot as an oenophile destination. Cigars on the patio or flamenco indoors add fuel to an already festive environment. Go early, those who want to learn. The later it is and drunker regulars become, the more likel y your civilized evening will result in a swillfest. Not that there's anything wrong with that. It's why we like it here.
Dim lights, red wine, dark-chocolate-covered strawberries — all the essentials are here. Yet the Blind Monk's genius goes far beyond the menu. It's a vibe that makes you want to linger, sipping your petite Syrah, listening to a soulful guitarist strumming on a Tuesday evening. Such sumptuous yuppie havens are common in New York or Chicago, but in South Florida, the Monk is a gem. It's small, with a cozy cluster of tables and a long leather couch under a TV screen that plays classic, black-and-white flicks. No need to worry about drunks in Ed Hardy shirts stumbling or spilling Bud Light at this bar. The ceilings are high, the décor sparse. There are craft beers for your date and enough cheese and prosciutto to soak up the booze. Sit down, stay awhile. This is the perfect place to hide from the world.
It's another Saturday night in Fort Lauderdale. You and your friends want to grab some drinks to forget about a shitty breakup that happened earlier in the week. Or perhaps it's someone's 30th birthday, maybe a bachelorette party. But heading to the same ol' spots just isn't what you've got in mind. Dripping in hot pink, glitz, and six-foot-tall, fast-talking, sassy drag queens, Lips is a 24/7 party spot where the frozen cosmopolitans flow freely. On the disco-ball-shimmering stage, drag queens dressed to the nines saunter about as they entertain the room with their spot-on diva impressions and cabaret numbers. As the signature cocktails keep coming, so does your liquid courage, and before you know it, you'll be getting a lap dance by the colorful-haired bubble butt named Twat LaRouge. Anything is bound to happen inside Lips, as long as you've got a few drinks in you and you're ready to give those hard-working performers a few tips.
Walking through the doors of Mystic Water Kava Bar is like being on a psychedelic trip. In one fell swoop, you'll go from standing on a concrete sidewalk to being surrounded by a magical, fairy-tale forest. The interior looks like a giant tree house illuminated by purple and green fireflies. Paintings of mystical wizards adorn the walls, casting a spell on your senses. Although the bar serves only kava — no liquor or beer — the décor alone will have your mind feeling tipsy.