Although the name of the green papaya salad ($8.95) might conjure images of a sweet fruit salad, the southeastern Asian delicacy really has more in common with the coleslaw you might find at a good deli or the cabbage salad you might find at a Central American restaurant. Known as som tum in Thailand, the green papaya salad is made of julienned unripened papayas and carrots. At Sukhohai, it is stirred with lime juice, tomato, and ground peanuts. Always refreshing, it is generally spicy but can be made mild and can also, upon request, be prepared vegetarian, without the fish sauce the recipe traditionally calls for.