Korean food is so much more than just barbecue, the common gateway into the cuisine. Adventurous eaters who want to try as broad a sampling as possible have to get to Myung Ga. The crispy rice at the bottom of the hot stone bowl in the dolsot bibimbap, with beef, bean sprouts, cucumber, and dried seaweed, will become your new standard for the simple grain. The house-made tofu appears in ten kinds of bubbling stews, including the kimchi soondubu ($16.95). The pickled fermented cabbage, along with a generous helping of red chili paste, gives the broth its fire-red color and eye-watering spice. The big chunks of creamy tofu provide a cooling respite in each mouthful. Myung Ga also has the barbecue — huge portions that arrive on sizzling cast-iron platters, just in case you have an uncontrollable desire for meat.