On a recent visit, Sea was abuzz with a crowd of regulars, a handful at the bar, and a table of 12. It's delightful to see that this small space is getting the steady clientele it deserves, since the cooking here is among the best in town.Tony Sindaco is at the helm; he's the chef who had been at Sunfish Grill to later reemerge at this gem.
The chalkboard menu lists the day's dishes -- steak crostini and beet salad were winning starters -- yet the conch stew remains my favorite first dish. It starts with a mirepoix, to which Sindaco adds San Marzano tomatoes, white wine, poblano, cubanelles, tumeric, cumin, sherry, and conch, of course. The chowder is served with savory focaccia bread that's perfect for dunking.
If you haven't yet been to Sea, make it a priority.