Ask a dozen barbecue aficionados about their favorite barbecue, and you'll usually get a dozen different opinions. But lately all eyes have been trained on the same prize: the meaty back ribs offered at this casual, laid-back joint. It's hard to quibble with both the quantity and the quality of the fare at TSoM, especially the beef brisket, which has been simmered until tender, or the chopped boneless pork. Extras are also worthy: The side dishes include rich baked beans and roasted corn on the cob; the appetizers range from jalapeño poppers to Texas chili rife with kidney beans and ground beef. Even the grilled chicken breasts are doublewide and juicy. Of course the star of the show is the sauce, which is tangy and aromatic. Wash it all down with a Texas-size iced tea, bring your friends, and watch 'em all fall in line with your -- and Texas' -- way of thinking.