Immunized from Criticism

I do so love a man with a sense of humor. Not that I’m going to harbor any illicit feelings toward the proprietor of the Harbor Grille (815 NE Third St., Dania Beach, 954-927-3232), Neil Zucker. But he’s thoroughly won my admiration with his response to a critical review I…

Shall We Dance?

I’ve been having an argument with a chef friend of mine. He was incensed because a reviewer had left his restaurant without eating dessert. Would I ever do such a thing? he wanted to know. Yup. I would, I have, and I will. I try not to make a practice…

Chicken à la King

The folks at Poultry King (2900 W. Sample Rd., Pompano Beach, 954-977-2921) really aren’t kidding — they are indeed emperors of everything that was once feathered. In addition to the familiar spit-roasted chicken, the deli-like storefront located in the Festival Flea Market Mall also offers roasted capons and turkeys. And…

Diet Another Day

“What if,” my husband began recently, “we both followed different diets — like, I could do Atkins and you could do the Zone or something — and then you compared them? Isn’t that a good idea for an article?” Let me think about that for a minute. Mmmm… no. Not…

Pure Bread

On the Nation’s Restaurant News list of food trends for 2002, artisanal bread came in first. I can’t disagree. Artisan products, which simply means comestibles prepared at least partially by hand (as opposed to by machine), are highly worthy of the restaurant industry’s respect. And artisan breads, which range from…

Spain Reigns

When it comes to Spain, the average American mind conjures up a series of cultural images: old churches and cobblestone streets. A cup of gazpacho and a pitcher of sangría. Maybe even a bullfight or two, and a good shoe sale. But a strip mall and a rice plantation house?…

Holiday Spirits

The timing couldn’t be better — just when we need some hair of the dog to counteract the canine’s New Year’s Eve and Day bites, De la Tierra (106 S. Swinton Ave., Delray Beach, 561-272-5678) comes along with the Dirty Thirty Thursday. This Thursday (and every week after), the restaurant’s…

Feels Like the First Time

About five years ago, I was charged with what, at the time, seemed like a perfectly reasonable request: Find the ideal restaurant to review for the inaugural issue of New Times Broward-Palm Beach. The parameters were broad, somewhat general in scope. The eatery had to be relatively new. Untouched by…

Gone South

Where, oh where, has my Little Italian Tavern gone? Devoted patrons may have noticed that the homey joint vacated its well-known but rather scrubby location in front of a trailer park in Hallandale Beach a bunch of moons ago. Injury enough, no? Well, the owners have actually delivered the ultimate…

The Spice Is Right

I have always judged a dish’s quotient of spice by my father’s head. Balding for as long as I can remember, my dad, who enjoys a bit of zest now and then, sports a scalp that is a veritable litmus test for chilies. Mild? He might get a little clammy…

For Pizza’s Sake

Forget what your mama’s always told you: You can have pizza for breakfast. And you don’t even have to eat it cold, right out of the fridge. Not if you frequent Primanti Brothers Pizza & Grill (901 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-565-0605). Open for three decades on…

Aroma therapy

What is it with you and Chinese food?” a neighbor recently asked me. Apparently, he’d been observing the steady parade of delivery drivers from various local restaurants in our driveway and the takeout boxes of yang chow fried rice and moo shu pork in our refrigerator for the past two…

Oooh, that smell follow your nose to Evergreen Spices Inc.

Judging from the piles of freshly ground, aromatic spices just waiting to be scooped into jars and taken home for your culinary pleasure, you might think you were standing in a medina in Tangiers. Indeed, the stalls in the Festival Marketplace can be as twisting and convoluted as those in…

Poor Sports

In the contact sport that is the restaurant business, the familiar athletic clichés apply, albeit in slightly modified form. For example, while it’s true that “winning isn’t everything — it’s the only thing,” “how you play the game” is directly related to whether you win at all. And of course,…

Why Thai?

The moniker seems clear enough, but don’t be taken in: Thai-An Market (2593 S. State Rd. 7, Pembroke Pines, 954-893-5838) is actually a Vietnamese grocery store. Inside, in addition to Asian spices, pickles, condiments, and produce, you’ll also find authentic banh mi, a hard-to-procure item in Florida. These French-Vietnamese submarine…

Sing it Loud

Ah, the benefits of a music education. Now, I’m not such an advocate that I believe anyone can learn to play an instrument. I’m not so sure that Mozart makes you better in math. I don’t think that all babies are born with perfect pitch and that tone-deafness is only…

Vintage Vittles

Vintage clothing might be the fashion right now. But too often, it seems like once we’re all dressed up in someone else’s grandma’s pencil skirt and beaded sweater, we’ve got no place to go. Here’s some direction: Check out Hometown Favorites (www.hometownfavorites.com; or call 888-694-2656), and throw an era-oriented dinner…

Poutine Spirit

You know you’re getting old when bowling becomes vigorous exercise. And you know you’re getting desperate when you crave a dish that’s made in the restaurant of a bowling alley. Actually, I’m not a stranger to either sensation. I generally thought of bowling alleys as places to score cheap booze;…

Yakety-Yak

Fans of ye olde yak meat, rejoice. All two of you will be delighted to hear that ’tis the season for a yak burger barbecue, to be held December 7 at the Milagro Center of Delray Beach (101 SE Second Ave., 561-963-0336). The idea behind the yak drive is twofold:…

Ghee Whiz

You’d be forgiven if, just by reading the advertisement for the Palace, a two-month-old Indian restaurant on State Road 84 in Davie, you make some assumptions. You notice immediately the large type for the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. Your eye then is drawn to the box that proclaims that “banquet hall…

Bullish on the Moose

The coffeehouse is dead. Long live Chocolate Moose Café (9118 State Rd. 84, Davie, 954-474-5040), where you can get a rich cuppa brew to sip while you listen to live bands. Just don’t assume you’ll find chocolate mousse here; the real mascot is the “white cow” — a heavenly concoction…

Raw Power

Rare hamburgers, fair warning: Your days are numbered as surely as those of cigarettes in restaurants. Many operators simply won’t serve you anymore — at least not without written consent. Thanks to the much-publicized proliferation of buddy bacteria E.coli and salmonella in worldwide supplies of ground meat, restaurants, especially chains,…