A New Argentina

Of all the species of restaurants in the world, the steak house is no doubt the most universal. Nearly every dominant culture that morphed from hunting to herding — Italian, Japanese, Brazilian — has a themed place for steak. And each gives a simple piece of meat its own distinctive…

We Are Family

The campaign in Portugal is on: convince the wine-drinking world that natural cork is the only renewable resource appropriate to stop up a bottle of vino. Portuguese cork harvesters (yes, it really does come from trees) and cork-stopper manufacturers have banded together to enforce industrywide standards that will ensure a…

Shop the Subcontinent

The Little Asia Market (1756 N. University Dr., Pembroke Pines, 954-437-1666) is the answer to why everyone should frequent Indian grocery stores. This shop carries a familiar-exotic ethnic mix of Indian-Pakistani groceries, compact discs, tapes, videos, and other cultural, hard-to-find necessities for the local community, which looks to be burgeoning…

Baby Elephant Steps

Funny how many elephants were in the restaurant the night I dined at the six-week-old “Thai Kitchen & Sushi Bar” Galanga in Wilton Manors. You know the kind. They’re really obvious — trunks, tusks, and all — but no one seems to notice them. Either that or the pachyderms are…

Waiting for Bacchus

Sure, it’s about nine months away, set to take place on March 21-23 in 2003. But right now you can whet your appetite for Boca Bacchanal, Boca Raton Historical Society’s first annual winefest and auction to benefit children’s charities in Boca Raton. The Website — www.bocabacchanal.com — is up and…

Italian Food, Unchained

Can the owner of TGI Fridays and Krispy Kreme franchises find happiness and truly Italian cuisine in a giant shopping mall in Boca Raton? In a word, yes. Hey, I didn’t believe it either. But in the case of Pranzo, a spacious, airy space in the sprawling shopalopolis of Mizner…

Slam Dunk

Exotic Bites (1842 S. Young Cir., Hollywood, 954-921-6667) might not be as ethnically outlandish as it implies — after all, the majority of diners are now familiar with Middle Eastern delicacies such as falafel, tabbouleh, gyros, and kebabs. But the little storefront eatery, which has a couple of outside tables…

Johnny V. is in the House

You know an area is heating up when Nation’s Restaurant News highlights it. This past week, Delray Beach was pinpointed as a palate-singeing zone. Of the five restaurants mentioned in the “What’s Hot In” column, three are relatively new: Sopra, Aura, and De la Tierra at Sundy House (106 S…

Clueless on Las Olas

A clue is a terrible thing to waste. Take Indigo, the upscale pan-Asian restaurant in the charming but inept Riverside Hotel on Las Olas Boulevard. There is, in fact, the whiff of a hint of a semblance of a real clue here: that a hotel with tony pretensions on Fort…

Emperors of Ice Cream

I’ve been bothered ever since I read Al Martinez’s essay, “Confessions of an Ice Cream Fanatic,” published in the August 2000 issue of Gourmet magazine. At first, I couldn’t pinpoint the source of my distaste, but after two years of reflecting on the article’s thesis — that the “Statue of…

A Slice of Paradise

The Broadwalk Cafe (1400 N. Surf Rd., Hollywood, 954-922-0322) is true to its name, offering a broad selection of beachside fare: Greek salads to Spanish omelets to Belgian waffles to Philly cheese steaks. But its tastiest and most value-oriented item just might be its pizza. A slice of the New…

Subcontinental Seafood

They may not cure the common cold, but the new Indian menu items at Legal Sea Foods (various locations in Broward and Palm Beach counties) purportedly have “Ayurvedic” (health-promoting) properties. Calling the campaign “Spices of Life: Legal Sea Foods Exploring India’s Cuisine and Ayurvedic Influences,” Legal CEO Roger Berkowitz unveiled…

In the Swim

If there’s one thing the six-month-old Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa offers, it’s a dizzying number of choices. First, you must decide between pulling into the valet station or self-parking in the lot across the street, then taking the second-story pedestrian bridge over to the hotel. Then you have to…

Scent of a Wonton

Betrothed relatives and dear friends, please take note: I will not review the food at your weddings. Not even in jest. I will give whatever hotelier, restaurant, or caterer you hire my highest accolades. I will praise your decision to serve chicken over pork and vigorously applaud whatever version of…

Two Funerals and an Opening

And the slump is on. Two old-time eateries have fallen into the sinkhole we call our local economy: The 26-year-old Left Bank closed June 3, and the 18-year-old Burt & Jack’s served its last supper June 29. September 11, natch, is being blamed for the exits, particularly in the case…

Woe, Mexico

Mexico wants you to know: It’s not all about the Corona. At the recent Food & Wine Magazine Classic at Aspen, the country sponsored a media luncheon titled “A Sublime Feast.” The purpose was to “introduce” members of the press and restaurant industry to both the elements of Mexico’s cuisine…

Tap into This

Wine enthusiasts who can’t afford to travel to the food and wine festivals this summer can take heart. The two-week-old Florida Tap Room Restaurant & Bar (515 Seabreeze Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-779-3008) — former address of Fins Dockside — offers an expertly chosen wine list that features popular vineyards’ second…

The New-Millennium Falcon

It’s easy to get the wrong idea about the Falcon House. A drive by this four-month-old restaurant, located in a Delray Beach house built in 1925 for a wealthy attorney, offers a view of typical old South Florida restoration: muted taupe colors with a brighter turquoise trim; Spanish-tile roof; tropical…

Tea-ing Off

I always find it gratifying when a breakfast/lunch eatery attracts enough of a following to extend its hours. Such is the case with Talula’s Cafe & Tea Room (3045 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale, 954-567-0556). At least, sort of. The modest, homey café doesn’t serve supper nightly, but it is…

Top Tapas

Small-business restaurateurs, listen up: I have discovered the key to success. Forget about offering value for money or supplying a hitherto-overlooked cultural demand or even trying to please your regular customers. If you really want to make a go of your culinary foray, all you have to do is paint…

Where’s Ulrich?

People are often surprised to hear that I don’t know where every chef in the tri-county area goes when he leaves his current post. Yes, my radar is out there, and it’s always on. But I’m not psychic. Usually the reason I do know where some beloved toque has absconded…

Sustained Interest

Just what is the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), why is it hosting a Wild Alaskan Sustainable Cooking Class at the Whole Foods Market (1400 B Glades Rd., Boca Raton, 561-447-0000), and why are we so excited about this event? It’s not that we’re ignorant about guilt-free eating. The MSC is…