Good Munching, Vietnam

If you want to check out how well a restaurant is doing, visit on a Monday or Tuesday evening. Stop by an ethnic establishment, a place to which people go for particular flavors. Schedule your meal during prime-time TV hours, when the kids have gone to bed and most folks…

Reveling in the Decadence

I suppose we should congratulate restaurateurs Carlo Vaccarezza and J.R. Bautista. It’s not often two male partners give birth to fraternal twins: Petaluma and Smoke, joint restaurants that opened two months ago at 2861 and 2863 E. Commercial Blvd., respectively, in Fort Lauderdale. Like many multiple births, the bouncing baby…

Foodstuff

“Edelweiss, Edelweiss, every morning you greet me.” And that’s because, in Fort Lauderdale, you’re not just a song, you’re a bakery (2909 E. Commercial Blvd., 954-772-1529). “Small and white, clean and bright, you look happy to meet me,” and serve me all sorts of delectable baked goods. I especially love…

Hooray for Hollywood

Let the naysayers natter: They declared the redevelopment of Las Olas Boulevard in Fort Lauderdale a lost cause; they considered the rehabbing of Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach a waste of time; and they dismissed the resurrection of South Beach as a pipe dream. (They’re the same ones who now…

Foodstuff

Don’t let the name fool you. The tiny, counter-service eatery Empanada Only (119 N. 20th Ave., Hollywood) also sells individual-size gourmet pizzas, fudge-y brownies, cookies, cappuccinos, and Italian ices. But it’s those oven-fresh, stuffed turnovers that’ll grab your attention, particularly the ones bursting with chicken cacciatora; sausage with peppers and…

Foodstuff

If you’ve ever thought about taking cooking classes but have been too intimidated to try, now’s the time to get over it. Edward List, chef-proprietor of the three-year-old New American restaurant Sprazzo (201 N. Federal Hwy., Jupiter), teaches a class at his establishment every Tuesday night from 6:30 to 8…

Currying Favor

The guidebooks warn against it: Don’t hire a guide in Tangier. Don’t eat in any restaurants there, they also caution. In fact, according to the guidebooks, Americans shouldn’t even consider taking the ferry from the southern tip of Spain to the rocky northern coast of Morocco. Forget the beauty of…

New World Conceit

After I read the latest article to extol Miami’s New World restaurants — the spread in the November issue of Gourmet magazine — I thought (and not for the last time, I suspect): Nice piece. But what about Fort Lauderdale? Long before local voters resolved to change Dade’s name to…

Foodstuff

In Greece you usually walk into the kitchen of a restaurant and look into the bubbling pots to choose your meal. In the month-old Greek Depot Cafe (200 S. Federal Hwy. in Boca Raton), that step has been deleted: The prepared fare’s laid out behind a counter, and all you…

Foodstuff

You might think that if you’ve seen one knish, you’ve seen ’em all. But then you certainly weren’t browsing at Benny’s Knish Factory (6680 NW 57th St., Tamarac), where if you see one knish, you’re likely to see thirty others. A veritable Baskin-Robbins of the stuffed pastries, the year-old Benny’s…

Danish Delight

In most people’s minds, The Little Mermaid is an animated film based on the fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen. But to some of us, The Little Mermaid is also a wonderful Danish restaurant on NE Fifth Avenue in Delray Beach, albeit one with a fairy-tale history all its own…

All You Can East

David Williams says that six years ago, when he and partners Richard Chin and Ray Huang opened Emerald Coast on North Pine Island Road in Sunrise, the all-you-can-eat Chinese and American buffet restaurant was the first of its kind in the area. Since then, similar value-driven eateries have sprung up,…

Foodstuff

If you’re anything like me, you haven’t caught many Dolphins games this fall, which is the 25th anniversary of the team’s undefeated season. But if you’re anything like me, you have caught some of those 1972 Dolphins — on a bottle of wine, that is. Delicato Vineyards in Manteca, California,…

Yes Surrey

Every August I fly up to New Jersey to search for good things to eat. Sounds odd, I know, in the state that’s sometimes referred to as “the armpit of the nation.” And having spent my entire adolescence imprisoned in the northeast Jersey suburb of Livingston, where the epitome of…

Foodstuff

Speaking of Victorian tearooms (see “Dish”): South Palm Beach County isn’t short on charm either. Hidden behind the hulking Mizner Park, the year-old Boca Victoria, 125 East Boca Raton Rd., Boca Raton, 561-391-1310, serves brunch, lunch, and traditional high tea. The tearoom is actually several cozy rooms, and you can…

Foodstuff

Longhorn Steakhouse, Lone Star Steakhouse, and Roadhouse Grill. The Olive Garden, Carrabba’s Italian Grill, and Romano’s Macaroni Grill. Tony Roma’s, Chili’s, Boston Market, Shells, Chowders, the Original Pancake House. I’ve never seen more chain restaurants squeezed into a square mile as I have on University Drive in Coral Springs. And…

Building a Better Muffuletta

You don’t hear much about the Italian contribution to the distinctive cuisine of New Orleans. You can discern the French influence easily enough, as well as the Spanish and African-American — cookbooks and historical tomes alike laud the region’s primary settlers and their edible offerings. But pasta and marinara sauce?…

Haas Rules

Robbin Haas was a little nervous about opening his latest project, Bex, in Boca Raton. And who could blame him? The award-winning New American chef, who was named one of the top ten chefs in the nation by Food & Wine magazine in 1991, has also received critical acclaim from…

Food Stuff

Jen Karetnick: When did you learn how to belly-dance? Maja, Girl from the Nile: I’m from Cairo, so it’s in my blood. But I didn’t actually learn until I moved from Brazil to the United States about seven years ago. Then I became a professional. JK: Where do you practice…

Noodle Nirvana

Expectation can be a diner’s worst enemy, leading down the path of culinary disaster. I can’t count how many times I’ve entered a restaurant run by people who operate other well-known eateries with good reputations and left bewildered by an unappealing menu, poor service, or icky food. The most recent…

Foodstuff

If you think Elvis impersonators are only to be found in Vegas, Chris MacDonald will reprogram your synapses. MacDonald does the curled-lip thing every Thursday evening at Memphis Barbeque Co. on North Federal Highway in Lighthouse Point. He also does the costume thing, taking audiences through the Elvis fashion years…

Broken English

Every city has a culinary identity, a kind of food or restaurant that not only dominates the native dining scene but creates a reputation for the metropolis nationwide. I’m not referring to the highfalutin regional stuff written about in the glossy food magazines — New World, Pacific Rim, et cetera…