Balti curry, while widely popular in the U.K., isn't the most authentic of Indian dishes. Yet the version served at East Boca's Curries and More is deeply satisfying, full of slow-blooming, peppery heat and the flavors of lemony coriander, musty cardamom, and a vindalooesque sour tang. It's just one of the restaurant's variations on popular Indian dishes such as korma and tikka masala. The space is comfortable and modern and steers clear of the whole regional-history-as-décor thing in favor of wall-length mirrors and a curved white bar top with retro-looking stools. Starters such as vegetable pakora and samosas are solid, but specialties like puffy naan bread don't taste like they were cooked in a proper tandoor oven. The owners are hands-on with service, which is friendly enough but tends to be slow and haphazard.
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East Boca's Curries and More Is Solid
April 8, 2010 | 4:00am|