Filet o’ Fun

"Jumbo shrimp" is a favorite oxymoron. I've got another doozy: "New classics." You know, things like steak au poivre, a New York strip sirloin steak topped with a five-peppercorn cognac cream sauce; filet Oskar, a tenderloin topped with jumbo lump crabmeat, fresh asparagus, and béarnaise sauce; sliced sirloin served with...
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“Jumbo shrimp” is a favorite oxymoron. I’ve got another doozy: “New classics.” You know, things like steak au poivre, a New York strip sirloin steak topped with a five-peppercorn cognac cream sauce; filet Oskar, a tenderloin topped with jumbo lump crabmeat, fresh asparagus, and béarnaise sauce; sliced sirloin served with sautéed peppers and onions and a roasted garlic sauce; and filet Diane, filet mignon smothered with sautéed mushrooms in a mustard demi-glace sauce. Most of us will recognize these as mainstays of Continental dining. But to the folks at Morton’s of Chicago (777 S. Flagler Dr., Phillips Point, West Palm Beach; 5050 Town Center Cir., Boca Raton), they’re the gateway to green stuff. The South Florida locations, owned by a subsidiary of Morton’s Restaurant Group that is rumored to be attempting to topple the current management in a proxy fight, is adding the cuts to a menu that hasn’t changed since the steak-house chain opened in 1978. Coincidence? Doesn’t really matter to me. As long as Diane and Oskar give me an easy time of it, I don’t care who’s running the joint.

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