The converted 1880s "conch" houses that form the Marquesa Hotel back up to this lovely boutique restaurant that serves an ever-changing menu of local seafood married with worldly flavors. Here, Chef Susan Ferry creates unexpected pleasures out of yellowtail snapper, working the fillet into an herb-dusted medallion and then setting it off with a summery caponata graced with pine nuts and capers. She'll capriciously pair contrasting flavors to great success, as in a duo of soups that features chilled green apple and fennel alongside a spicy broth of Thai lemongrass and basil studded with luscious, grilled pink shrimp. Then there's the simple perfection of flawlessly cooked vegetables, haricot verts and sugar snap peas that crunch with flavor. And though you'll struggle to fit in dessert with portions this large, the romantic dining room will beg for a finish of smooth peanut butter cheesecake outfitted with two spoons.
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Thursday, September 24, 2009 at 4 a.m. by John Linn
Last week, our dining critic, John Linn, headed to Key West, where he managed to find a few worthy restaurants still slinging food in this quiet time of year. Café Marquesa The converted 1880s "conch" houses that form the Mar...
Where on earth has New World cuisine gone? A decade ago, it was the up-and-comer, the regional fusion fare set to kick Southwestern's spicy, sassy ass. Diners could stuff themselves from Café Marquesa and Louie's Backyard in ...
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