The creation of chef Mike Saperstein and partner Evan David -- the pair behind Charm City Burgers -- El Jefe Luchador offers “hard-core Mexican street food” in a fun environment. Tables and chairs wear primary colors. Flamboyant lucha libre wrestling masks are mounted on one wall. A gaudy crystal chandelier hangs from tin ceilings. ZZ Top blares through the speakers. Plates have names like “Vampiro” and “Dos Locos Gringos.” Bold décor parallels bold flavors in the food that’s coming out of the kitchen here. Chicken or rib-eye asada tacos are the most popular, but foodies love the more adventurous pork carnitas (citrus garlic-braised pork shoulder), barbacoa (braised beef brisket), or mushrooms and yam. Toppings here are traditional yet flavorful: a ripe tomato and onion medley, tart lime, cilantro, and queso blanco.