Fra Diavolo

Appealing, homey, and comfortable surroundings belie the sophistication of the Italian cuisine. Nothing is elaborate, nor is it innovative, but it's all beautifully prepared. And if you haven't had veal done properly since the guilt-inducing 1980s, feel free to revel in it here, where you can order it eight different ways; the bocconcini Piemontese, with prosciutto, peas, and brandy-cream sauce, is excellent. Fish and shellfish are also wonderfully fresh, and chicken scarpariello carries a zing along with its homemade sausage. Liqueur-heavy desserts like Italian cheesecake flavored with triple sec and tiramisu come soaked in amaretto.