Hollywood Grill

The food of Armenia, Georgia, and Azerbaijan is the adopted food of cookouts, vacations, and a wine- and garlic-fueled night throughout much of the former Soviet Union, so anyone who's been to the Black Sea (or Brighton Beach) will feel at home at this modest outdoor café on the Broadwalk. Kebabs are at their best on a bit of Armenian flatbread, dressed with onion and tangy tkemali sauce. Their versions of kharcho, a spicy, exotically herbed lamb-and-rice soup, and lobio, a refreshing bean salad, are especially good, though khash, an austere soup of pork skin and bones, is an acquired taste at best. The menu lends itself to sharing and exploring the unusual flavors of the Caucasus, all without changing out of your flip-flops and bathing suit.