Hong Kong City BBQ

Reopened under the aegis of a new family, this 20-something Hong Kong-style restaurant in a Tamarac strip mall remains essentially unchanged, much to the relief of local foodies addicted to the restaurant's pan-fried noodles. The authentic flavors of Chinatown emanate from these dishes, and whole ducks, pork, and chicken, served barbecued, still hang on view near the front door, the only decoration along with a couple of fish tanks housing a few sleepy lobsters. Families congregate for rich casseroles like one made with slabs of pork and yucca, scallops with black pepper sauce, salt-and-pepper shrimp, Cantonese shrimp and wonton soup, and a good selection of vegetarian dishes, such as braised tofu and garlic string beans. Service is warm and attentive in this simple, comfortable room. And dim sum is served daily. But keep your eyes open -- with a rough bar next door, the neighborhood can be dicey at night.

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