Terrifically authentic, this comfortable place is pretty in pink-and-white and fresh flowers. The Peruvian seafood served here packs a wallop. Innocuous-looking spreads are vibrant with chili peppers, and ceviche hangs on the tongue. Lush avocados topped with shrimp and cold potatoes with cheese sauce are filling appetizers. Linguine with white clams is redolent with garlic, and fish topped with onions and tomatoes, while not zesty, is flavorful. Spicy soups and stews are terrific. And rice pudding is a nice alternative for dessert when the tres leches is finis.
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In the more remote corners of Peru, restaurateurs are going to great lengths to win regular customers: They're requiring the female cooks to practice encantes -- culinary spell-castings. These bewitchings aren't the white-witch, nos...
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