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1-Minute Review: Maison Carlos

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Not the Same As It Ever Was

We once loved chic Maison Carlos for its nostalgic take on Italian and French "Continental" cuisine; the menu felt like a '60s throwback plunked down in the middle of Clematis Street, from the oysters Rockefeller and vichyssoise to the soupe a l'ognion and the perfectly calibrated martinis served by elegantly dinner-jacketed staff. These days the concept feels more dated than delightful, and sadly, recently both food and service have succumbed to dreaded mediocrity. From gummy lobster risotto to fish served a la Milanese but reminiscent of Mrs. Paul's, or a tossed salad  swimming in olive oil, the kitchen seems to have given up in exhaustion. Our Tuscan-style steak was too tough to chew, and a bland dessert flan did nothing to sweeten the deal. The small wine list of French, Italian, and California bottles is mostly pricey and uninspired. Even worse, the pall has settled so thoroughly over the place that even the once perfectionist staff just doesn't seem to give a damn. The only thing that remains of the old magic is the luxurious prices.

Maison Carlos

Lunch/Dinner/French/Italian/Continental

207 Clematis Street

West Palm Beach

maisoncarlos.com

561-659-6524.

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