This shadowy photo of the Le Tub cheeseburger is appropriate to the experience of eating one: While some say it's the best burger they've ever eaten, probably just as many will swear to never go back to the place.

Sure, nothing chars a burger patty better than the blazing charcoal grill at Le Tub. But there's a lot of inconveniences you have to put up with -- unbearable heat in the summers, quarter-sized bugs that may drop in on the open-air seating, little guarantee that your burger will be done as asked, and service that's often equivalent to being kicked in the nuts. Ask for a water, for instance, and the wait staff will point you to the Igloo bucket.

Still, when it all comes together, Le Tub is brilliant -- the breeze coming off the Intracoastal is a perfect setting for a few great margaritas and a burger that, when done right, just might be the best in America, as GQ famously claimed.

If only Le Tub could be like that every time.

• 100 Favorite Dishes