After a six week haitus for the off season, Valentino's Cucina Italiana will reopen this Tuesday for dinner, with Giovanni Rocchio at the helm and the menu that has earned accolades.  Why is this remarkable?

Because Rocchio

had been shopping the restaurant around, having landed a seller, and the

deal fell through. Sources told Clean Plate Charlie that Rocchio had

been hoping to swap fine dining for a more casual concept.

The standby menu of this Northern Italian restaurant won this year's "Best Pasta Dish"

for ham and egg ravioli, a nod to this year's love affair with

runny yolk. What makes it so delicious? "Freshly made squares of pasta

are piped with fresh ricotta and spinach,

forming a protective border for an egg yolk to be gingerly placed

inside. With tender touch, the filling is sealed and the ravioli briefly

boiled, then finished with truffle butter and crispy pancetta. A slice

of the knife releases tangy yolk that commingles with succulent and

salty sauce served alongside grilled asparagus and prosciutto bread," we

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wrote.

With pastas in the $25 to $30 range, fish averaging $35 a plate, and meat $25 to market price, fresh ingredients at Valentino's are expensive: out of reach for most diners, beyond special occasions. Traditional Italian cuisine may be beloved, but pre-recession prices on menus around here are quickly becoming a thing of the past.

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