Though South Florida is certainly no bastion of French fare, a few places have found their way into the fray and made a name. In Hollywood, Bistro 1902 fills the franco void thanks to the owner, Parisian-born Karim Laitaoui. He is often at the front of the house, greeting guests and helping to seat — a necessary evil for any true, family-run establishment. But his real job is in the back of the house; Laitaoui is executive chef, on the line each night executing each dish with precision despite having no formal training. To see if his restaurant makes the grade, read this week's review of Bistro 1902, now posted on Clean Plate Charlie.