Food News

Borgo Antico Pizzeria Debuts on Palm Beach Island

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Palm Beach is not exactly the place you'd expect to find a pizzeria that seems plucked from the Italian region of Publia, but Borgo Antico ("Little Old Village") is betting that its thoroughly Italian pies will find an audience on "The Island."

With pizza master (and World Pizza Championship contestant) Luca Rapacciuolo

at the oven, Borgo Antico is dishing almost four dozen different pies,

from the classic margherita to more elaborate numbers featuring

mozzarella, Parmesan, arugula and bresaola (air-dried cured beef).

Unlike many Italian-American pizzerias, at Borgo crusts are thin but

not cracker-crisp and toppings are applied with a restrained hand.

Pizzas average about $20.

The menu also offers a handful of starters, from seafood and

salumi platters to simple green salad, plus a few pastas (like

orecchiette with broccoli rabe) and tiramisu, torta di nonna and a

couple of others for dessert.

The restaurant itself is sweet, with a handsome bar beneath a

large chrome chandelier that looks like electric tentacles waving in

the air, and a long, narrow dining room with comfy banquettes, lots of

big windows and an exhibition kitchen at the far end.

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Bill Citara