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Palm Beach is not exactly the place you'd expect to find a pizzeria that seems plucked from the Italian region of Publia, but Borgo Antico ("Little Old Village") is betting that its thoroughly Italian pies will find an audience on "The Island."
With pizza master (and World Pizza Championship contestant) Luca Rapacciuolo
at the oven, Borgo Antico is dishing almost four dozen different pies,
from the classic margherita to more elaborate numbers featuring
mozzarella, Parmesan, arugula and bresaola (air-dried cured beef).
Unlike many Italian-American pizzerias, at Borgo crusts are thin but
not cracker-crisp and toppings are applied with a restrained hand.
Pizzas average about $20.
The menu also offers a handful of starters, from seafood and
salumi platters to simple green salad, plus a few pastas (like
orecchiette with broccoli rabe) and tiramisu, torta di nonna and a
couple of others for dessert.
The restaurant itself is sweet, with a handsome bar beneath a
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large chrome chandelier that looks like electric tentacles waving in
the air, and a long, narrow dining room with comfy banquettes, lots of
big windows and an exhibition kitchen at the far end.