Restaurant Reviews

Can This Restaurant Be Saved?

Sometimes I wonder if, back in the roaring 1990s, all those black families who lived in shanty shacks and cracker houses and cement block apartments just outside downtown West Palm Beach put a hex on the city when they moved out. They'd been relocated, evicted, or strongly encouraged to sell so their homes could be bulldozed for what eventually became the uppercrusty live/shop complex City Place. That was supposed to be the beginning of a renaissance for a city that has been limping on gimpy legs ever since, frantic to attract businesses that will put down stakes and draw lots of jolly people to ride in those empty horse-drawn carriages and quaint little trolley cars. Ding-ding! All aboard!

West Palm has certainly had one piece of bad luck after the next in the last decade, a litany of woes that would almost make you feel sorry for the planners if they hadn't bungled so much else out of greed and hubris. Street reconstruction stretched into years; historic buildings sat blinking their blind, vacant eyes; and anybody tracking the revolving door of restaurants and shops — the ever-hopeful and the inevitably failing — couldn't help but see that the city's problems needed more fixing than cheery forecasts from local PR flaks could provide.

One such forecast crossed my path a few months ago, courtesy of the sunnily optimistic, glass-half-full office of Carey O'Donnell, a publicist who's been around long enough to have seen it all. "New Businesses Flock to Downtown West Palm Beach" the headline trumpeted. Seeing as how it was almost summer when I received this piece of good news, when life is slow around these parts, I put off checking out all the flocking and jostling until the weather cooled. When it got to be October and the humidity index dropped under 90, I ventured out to see what I could see.

I had in mind a newish Greek place on Datura Street called Taverna Yiasou; it opened last spring. As coincidence would have it, a contaminated water alert that stretched into a week of boiled water and showerless mornings for local residents had put a bit of an e. coli-infected damper on things. You had to wonder how, if locals were brushing their teeth with San Pellegrino, a restaurateur was supposed to be able to turn out three-course meals for customers without, presumably, washing a dish or mopping a floor. "You couldn't pay me to eat down there right now," a friend remarked.

Apparently a lot of other people agreed. As we executed our pre-prandial stroll from Narcissus Avenue up Clematis and along Federal, we passed nary a soul. It was 8 p.m. on a beautiful, breezy Saturday night, and even Starbucks was shuttered. A few other fooderies had been brave enough or desperate enough to stay open: We passed Ken's Steakhouse on Narcissus, entirely customer-free, where the proprietor sat at an outdoor table, sighing audibly.

West Palm Beach looked like an abandoned stage set after the gay troupe has moved on. But as we came round a corner, there was Taverna Yiasou glittering like a mirage. Light spilled from open doors, and customers kicked back at sidewalk tables, puffing cigars, ragging each other in exotic dialects. Inside, only one booth was open, and it had our name on it. We parked ourselves and observed the bustle: baby girls in party dresses draped in frills, grown up girls in stacked heels and spray-on skirts, guys in slouchy suits, old men patting the fannies of the grown-up girls, everybody kissing and hugging and glad-handing and roaming between tables, making merry. We'd found ourselves in the middle of a big fat Greek party.

And we allowed how this was probably a very good sign, because, after all, transplanted Athenians oughta know their spanakopita, right?

As it turned out, these Greeks were indeed experts of grilled octopus grape leaves stuffed with lamb and rice; avgo­lemono, a lemon-orzo soup, which is free with an entrée; and flaming cheeses. On the other hand, they knew zilch about fillet of sole, squat about swordfish, nada about sautéed shrimp; and their expertise with pork souvlaki was null and void. Our meal was uneven the way a roller coaster is: exhilarating highs and stomach-churning lows. My ride kept racing downhill at lunch a couple of days later.

I don't really get why this should be so. Odis Giakis, the personable guy who owns Taverna Yiasou, had two Greek restaurants before this one, in Delray and Greenacres. Any kinks in his menu or delivery should long since have been ironed flat. Yiasou's decor is consumer-friendly, with tile floors and blue-and-white-checked tablecloths, fishing nets, oversized photos of Greek scenery, sturdy chairs, and shelves displaying Mediterranean groceries for sale, including yogurt, tahini, orzo, a couple of imported cheeses, dried oregano, anchovies, and phyllo dough. It's an everyday kind of place, not so chic as its competitor a block over, Leila, which serves a similar menu in an entirely different register.

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Gail Shepherd
Contact: Gail Shepherd