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China Beach Bistro Debuts in West Palm Beach

Real Chinese cuisine in Palm Beach County? 

Well, stranger things have happened. 

At least they will if all goes according to plan at the new China Beach Bistro (409 Northwood Rd., 561-833-4242), an upscale restaurant dedicated to 

turning out authentic Chinese fare (no sushi!) and dim sum in West

Palm's resurgent Northwood neighborhood.  Proprietors are financier

Roger Hochstin and interior designer wife Judi, along with Café Centro

owners T.K. Kaytmaz and Sal Kutsal, who apparently have tasted their way

through local Chinese eateries and found them about as truly Chinese as

Chun King. 

To pull off this bit of culinary alchemy the

quartet raided real Chinese restaurants in New York for three chefs,

including one specializing in dim sum (literally, "touch the heart"),

the Chinese small plates that are rarely seen in these parts and even

more rarely are worth eating.

Among the dim sum offerings are

steamed shrimp and snow pea leaves dumplings, beef potstickers with baby

carrots and ginger, and a crispy roll of applewood-smoked bacon, shrimp

and asparagus. Entrée-sized dishes include half and whole Peking duck,

kung pao baby bamboo shoots with crispy tofu, steamed snapper with baby

bok choy, and wok-sauteed pork belly with garlic, scallions and pickled


Prices aren't takeout Chinese cheap, with dim sum

priced between $6 and $10 and entrees from $14 to $25. But given the

abomination that is most Chinese food in South Florida, it's probably a

pretty good deal.

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Bill Citara

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